Special Project: EVA with Interactive Audio!
- MannequinFan
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Special Project: EVA with Interactive Audio!
She'll have all the mods of the previous Evas but this one will include an interactive audio feature using push buttons and a motion sensor as well as the Bluetooth capability for wireless A.I. interaction using programs like HAL or Voice Attack for pre-scripted interaction.
In this thread I'll be focusing on the new mods as the others have been covered here: http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=140&t=56347
After looking at the recording module from Electronics123 and researching it a bit, I just had to give this concept a try.
This is the unit I will be incorporating into Eva...
http://www.electronics123.com/shop/prod ... ation-5322
More info on the unit and my review here: http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... 23#p861023
I won't be using the light sensor or the small speaker that came with it, but I will be using the PIR motion sensor and the 4 buttons.
Alright, so here's the basic plan for the button and PIR sensor locations.
With a little testing I found that the motion sensor works well with just a small 1/4" diameter hole in the MQ. The hole will limit the angle of view which is a good thing. You'll have to be in front of her and within about 4' to activate the sensor. Since she is primarily a "from behind" girl that will keep the sensor from going off all the time hopefully. The hole will be located right below the choker so I'm hoping it won't look too out of place.
The buttons will be located under each nipple, at the pubic area and at the end of the Fleshlight adapter.
Silicone nipples will cover the buttons and I'll need to make a silicone "mound" to cover the pubic button, maybe with a little cameltoe shape also. So I'll need to create a mold for that similar to the nipple mold. One issue that needed to be solved was how and where to locate the audio module so that it could be accessed for repairs/replacement and also to be able to replace batteries. I didn't really want to have any access panels or doors that would show if possible. I thought about putting everything in the head, but then there would be too many wires running through the neck, so as it turned out the best location was to have the module in the neck just below the joint. The small form factor of the module made that possible. This way the only wire going through the neck is the 3.5mm cable to the speaker.
The next issue was how to make everything accessible and also to allow access to the USB port so the board can be programmed without removing it. The solution was to have a removable neck pin with the audio components attached to it. So to change batteries or replace the board, you simply remove the 3 screws and lift the neck pin out. The USB port can accessed without removing the pin, so you'd just need to remove the head to program the board.
One other problem was how to keep the head easy to remove and have it be separate and untethered for storage.
By having a 3.5mm coupling in the center hole of the neck pin, this allows the head to be unplugged when it's removed.
The coupling is not shown this diagram, but it will be epoxied into the center hole... The new adapter design will have a 5" extension giving a total 6" (+/-7" including front of sleeve).
A button will be mounted to the cap with a thin plastic gasket to protect it and seal the adapter end.
I think a couple layers of freezer bag plastic would work for the gasket. I'm hoping that the printed sleeve plug will depress the button when one thrusts. Need to test this out.
The adapter also will be installed flush with the MQ surface instead of with the overlapping flanges.
This may be a bit more difficult to install but will make the finishing work much easier hopefully. This may seem a little insane, but I wanted to pull out all the stops on this one so my apologies for going a little nuts on the detail, lol.
Here's the whole layout showing all the different components and where they can be obtained (if purchased).
The leg cap parts (10 pcs.) are not shown as they are still being printed... 1. 808 Thump Bluetooth speaker.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/808-Thump-Por ... r/40587578
2. Printed audio compartment (2 pcs.)
Lid requires 2 - 1/16" x 1/2" neodymium disc magnets.
3. Printed neck joint socket (2 pcs.)
Requires stack of 3 - 5/16" x 1-1/2" fender washers
4. Printed neck joint pin.
Requires 4 - 1/16" x 1/2" neodymium disc magnets.
5. Printed neck flange for pin.
Requires 3 - #8 x 32 stainless steel hex nuts epoxied in recess.
6. 1/16" x 1/2" diameter neodymium disc magnets. 6 required for project.
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D81-N52
7. 3.5mm audio cable coupling. This will be epoxied into center hole in neck pin.
http://www.mycablemart.com/store/cart.p ... ail&p=5793
8. Printed chassis for mounting electronics.
Requires 3 - #6 pan head sheet metal screws.
9. Audio recording module with push buttons/sensors.
http://www.electronics123.com/shop/prod ... ation-5322
The small speaker that came with it will be removed.
More info and review of the module here: http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... 23#p861023
10. PIR motion sensor (included with #9).
11. 3.5mm audio cable 18" (2 required).
http://www.mycablemart.com/store/cart.p ... ail&p=4531
12. Printed shoulder joint pin. Goes over existing arm hook.
Requires 2 - #6 x 1-1/2" pan head sheet metal screws and 2- 4mm flat washers.
Also requires stack of 3 - 5/16" x 1-1/2" fender washers.
13. Printed shoulder joint socket (2 pcs.)
Requires stack of 3 - 5/16" x 1-1/2" fender washers.
14. 5/16" x 1-1/2" fender washers. 15 required for project.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_13898-37672-350 ... er+washers
15. 3/16" x 1" diameter neodymium magnet (2 required).
Mounts to shoulder pin with #10 flat head sheet metal screw.
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail. ... -P&cat=173
16. Printed nipple mold.
More on this here: http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=140&t=68569
17. Silicone nipples.
18. Printed Fleshlight adapter cap & sleeve plug.
Hopefully the sleeve plug will press the button to activate the audio.
The plug could be made different lengths as needed. We'll see how/if this works.
Cap requires 4 - #6 pan head sheet metal screws.
19. 5" Printed adapter extension.
20. Printed Fleshlight adapter (2 pcs.)
21. Printed snap-on adapter hole cover (2 pcs.)
22. Printed snap-on magnet retainer for leg joint.
23. 1/16" x 3/4" diameter neodymium magnets for leg joint (8 required).
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DC1-N52
24. Rubber grip pads for leg joints (8 required).
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1 ... /203661152
25. Wire splice connectors.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Electro ... /202204310
26. 22 GA hookup wire for extending leads on module.
https://www.radioshack.com/products/ul- ... 5717682885
Whew that was nuts. Well that's all for now.
Next thing is to start getting buttons installed and wires pulled through the neck while she's all opened up.
Stay tuned for more.
My Blog-> mfcreations3d.blogspot.com ... Easy Move Eyes™
My Shapeways Shop-> shapeways.com/shops/mf-creations
Re: Special Project: EVA with Interactive Audio!
- rubherkitty
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Re: Special Project: EVA with Interactive Audio!
RK
Hey, where's the parallel link for the transcabobulator?
Just when I start to pat you on the back I find you've slipped up.
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Re: Special Project: EVA with Interactive Audio!
Review of my SUKI doll from Sili Doll viewtopic.php?f=253&t=73439
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Re: Special Project: EVA with Interactive Audio!
Dang RK you caught me.
Just ordered one of these, they were all out of transcabobulators...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fjcJp_Nwvk
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- rubherkitty
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Re: Special Project: EVA with Interactive Audio!
Perhaps if you forgo the Drawn Reciprocation Dinglearm from the Eva project you can keep this endeavor under 59 billion thus beating Rockwell Engineering.
Have you though about incorporation the PIR sensor into some type of navel jewelry or bead? I'm not sure exactly what it looks like.
RK
PS: Turbo Encabulators are junk. I'll stick w/ my New Process 435 manual thanks.
Edit for updated info.
Too bad the PIR sensor is not "prettier". I was hoping it would be more of a shiny glass item that could pass as a jewel. It does have diamond looking facets though. 1/2" dia is pretty big. Would the hole in the body have to be that big too? Attached pic of a large navel diamond.
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Re: Special Project: EVA with Interactive Audio!
Hey RK that's a good suggestion, thanks!rubherkitty wrote:Have you though about incorporation the PIR sensor into some type of navel jewelry or bead? I'm not sure exactly what it looks like.
A small hole there would perhaps be more appropriate than in her neck. Maybe a small jewel could be placed above it so it looks like a piercing?
The only drawback would be that a shirt would cover it up when she's dressed. I guess you'd have to stick to crop tops?
Maybe that wouldn't be a bad thing to be able to disable the sensor by dressing if you didn't want it going off.
The plastic lens on the PIR is about 1/2" diameter. Maybe if done right it could look like a pearl or something?
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Re: Special Project: EVA with Interactive Audio!
The top of the lens tapers a little, so I'd probably just have the top of it showing through the hole - maybe 5/16"-3/8" diameter. The PIR worked just fine through a 1/4" hole, so even a hole that small would be OK.rubherkitty wrote:Too bad the PIR sensor is not "prettier". I was hoping it would be more of a shiny glass item that could pass as a jewel. It does have diamond looking facets though. 1/2" dia is pretty big. Would the hole in the body have to be that big too? Attached pic of a large navel diamond.
Going to be fun trying to strip the insulation off these tiny little wires with my shitty eyesight, lol.
HD has this cheap crimp/strip tool - only goes to 22 GA though, but should work for the hookup wire.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bend ... /202518592
Before I start running wiring I wanted to get the neck flange installed... A test fitting of the new audio compartment... I'm thinking of painting the lid flat black to give it that high tech android look.
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My Shapeways Shop-> shapeways.com/shops/mf-creations
- rubherkitty
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Re: Special Project: EVA with Interactive Audio!
Do be careful of those crimp connectors. If you're buying a large pack I suggest trying a few out on the extra wire you bought. When I started getting into repairing wiring on my old vehicles I started using them only to have the connections fail due to the wire breaking at the crimps. Too loose and the wires pull out. Too tight and you break the wire strands. I'm back to just twisting wires together and taping them or using a brush on rubber sealer.
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Re: Special Project: EVA with Interactive Audio!
Luckily I had the light sensor to practice with since I'm not using it.
The crimp connectors worked with the 22 GA wire doubled over, but not at all with the fine wires from the unit.
The only way I found to strip the insulation on the delicate wires was to burn it with a match about 3/4" from the end and quickly pull it off while it was still soft. Twisted the two in a pigtail then bent that down and taped. Seems pretty secure when I tug on it.
The green wire is the 22 GA hookup wire...
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Re: Special Project: EVA with Interactive Audio!
Adapter components and the neck pin assembly... The module PCB has a peel and stick backing - it will be stuck to the chassis on the neck pin.
I'm hoping the adhesive is good enough to keep it attached.
The end of the adapter comes pretty close to the belly of the MQ so I welded a little support on the adapter that will be apoxied to the belly to give the longer adapter some extra strength.
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Re: Special Project: EVA with Interactive Audio!
Review of my SUKI doll from Sili Doll viewtopic.php?f=253&t=73439
- Lahfan1970
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Re: Special Project: EVA with Interactive Audio!
What, no soldering? Much better connection and more permanent...MannequinFan wrote:Yep, twist and tape is the way to go.
I'd also suggest shrink tubing instead of tape, IF you solder. Otherwise the tape is better, since you can unwrap it to get to a failed (untwisted) connection. Great project!
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Re: Special Project: EVA with Interactive Audio!
Hi Lahfan1970,Lahfan1970 wrote:What, no soldering? Much better connection and more permanent...MannequinFan wrote:Yep, twist and tape is the way to go.
I'd also suggest shrink tubing instead of tape, IF you solder. Otherwise the tape is better, since you can unwrap it to get to a failed (untwisted) connection. Great project!
Thanks for the advice. You are right, I should probably be soldering the connections as well.
I also found that the tape slides off pretty easily after a while so I'd need to use an adhesive as well or use the shrink tubing.
Been battling a really bad cold the last week or so, so I haven't been doing much of anything.
The wires coming from the unit are extremely delicate so what I decided to do was to print a wire manager that will plug into the end of the chassis. I'll feed the small wires into the center through the diamond shaped holes and then through the small holes in the manager. Then I'll twist connect the hookup wires and push them back into the holes with some epoxy. That way any strain will be taken by the larger 22ga wiring. That's the plan anyway.
There's just barely enough lead length to do this. If I can pull this off with my poor eyesight then the rest will be easy. Wish me luck.
My Blog-> mfcreations3d.blogspot.com ... Easy Move Eyes™
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Re: Special Project: EVA with Interactive Audio!
I managed to get the button wires paired properly and pulled through the manager.
Looks like there will be plenty of room for the twist connects. I guess after making 24 connections I'll be doing it in my sleep.
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