We can rebuild her. New MF hand plates and wires.

[7Z5GZ]

Hey, y'all -

I'm looking to order some replacement hand bones for my doll, and attempt the operation shown in MF's videos.

I have a message out to my retailer asking for a skeleton photo so I can confirm the joint type used in this model before I start cutting things apart She is a WM doll with the articulated hand option.

I see that Sculpteo has three different hand types for three different kind of eyebolts for the "large" hands which will fit my doll. Should this distinction mean something to me?

Is there anything else I should know to start, or any newer threads around I should check out?

Thanks in advance for any help.

[MannequinFan]

Hi 7Z5GZ,

My hand skeleton is designed to replace the older palm plate/wire finger design, not sure it will work to replace the new articulated ones.
Is there a problem with them?

[7Z5GZ]

Hi 7Z5GZ,
My hand skeleton is designed to replace the older palm plate/wire finger design, not sure it will work to replace the new articulated ones.
Is there a problem with them?

Hey there! We'll see if they're compatible at all once I get the skeleton pictures from the manufacturer.

One of the fingers in mine is rotated weird so it can't 'close' next to the others:


On top of that, the index finger on the same hand came off today at that first big joint. I can't tell by feel whether something came loose or it straight up broke off.

Hmmmm actually the manufacturer seems to have sent me a skeleton model before

so it looks like the Sculpteo ones won't interface with that wrist type. I may need to just cut it open, pull those joints apart, and hope I can snap things back into place.

[MannequinFan]

Wow, it even looks like the fingers are bent funny in that mfr. photo.
From what I understand, the main knuckle joints are double hinged so they can bend both ways. These will be prone to breaking since you're always putting pressure on one hinge the wrong way, especially if the joints are tight.

It looks like the clevis may be on the palm part instead of the arm part like the old design. I actually have a palm plate design for that condition. See viewtopic.php?p=1884412#p1884412

The problem though is the factory plate looks to be really small with the individual rods, so my design probably won't fit into the TPE very well.

[Michaelangelo]

Hi Folks,

I‘m gonna bite the bullet and try and get Mira‘s hands done over the next few weeks.

I‘m pretty clear on the process thanks to the videos and photo threads here but one thing I was wondering about was the wire.

As far as I can tell, here in UK/EU/Germany, the 6491x wire is also known as H07V-U, -R and -K. These are easy to order, even from Amazon. Now the -U version is a solid wire, so obviously wrong. But the -R is known as rigid stranded while -K is flexible stranded. My question is, therefore: anyone have any experience of the H07V class wires and which one would be better? I really can‘t tell without ordering just how rigid the -R version is and whether the -K wouldn‘t be perhaps better.

Thanks in advance and wish me luck — hands are already ordered (I‘m going for the Nylok variant).

Here are some links about the wire in question:

Comparison of H07V-R, -K and -U:
https://fast-cables.com/product/h07v-u-h07v-r-h07v-k-2/

HO7vk wire for sale on Amazon Germany:
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Wiring-cable ... 19XK4?th=1

(Obviously gray would be the colour to pick)

Mike

[MannequinFan]

As far as I can tell, here in UK/EU/Germany, the 6491x wire is also known as H07V-U, -R and -K. These are easy to order, even from Amazon. Now the -U version is a solid wire, so obviously wrong. But the -R is known as rigid stranded while -K is flexible stranded. My question is, therefore: anyone have any experience of the H07V class wires and which one would be better? I really can‘t tell without ordering just how rigid the -R version is and whether the -K wouldn‘t be perhaps better.

Hi Michaelangelo,
I had a similar question from another customer in Germany.
I checked on the H07V-R 1.5² and it looks basically the same as the 6491X 1.5² (7 strands, 3mm O.D.).
As long as the overall diameter is no more than 3mm you should be fine.
You need the R version and the 1.5 strand size. The link you posted is for K and doesn't have the 1.5 size available.
Here is a pic I got from that customer where he found the 6491X on Amazon. He didn't send me a link unfortunately.

Leitung 6491X.JPG (115.86 KiB) Viewed 540 times

[Michaelangelo]

As far as I can tell, here in UK/EU/Germany, the 6491x wire is also known as H07V-U, -R and -K. These are easy to order, even from Amazon. Now the -U version is a solid wire, so obviously wrong. But the -R is known as rigid stranded while -K is flexible stranded. My question is, therefore: anyone have any experience of the H07V class wires and which one would be better? I really can‘t tell without ordering just how rigid the -R version is and whether the -K wouldn‘t be perhaps better.

Hi Michaelangelo,
I had a similar question from another customer in Germany.
I checked on the H07V-R 1.5² and it looks basically the same as the 6491X 1.5² (7 strands, 3mm O.D.).
As long as the overall diameter is no more than 3mm you should be fine.
You need the R version and the 1.5 strand size. The link you posted is for K and doesn't have the 1.5 size available.
Here is a pic I got from that customer where he found the 6491X on Amazon. He didn't send me a link unfortunately.


Leitung 6491X.JPG

That was very helpful, thank you!

I have found a UK distributor in Northern Ireland, who will probably be fairly quick with postage to Germany. And they have exactly the right one, 1.5 mm2 6491x:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/202668110651

I need to get a few other things from ACCU anyway, so hopefully deliveries over the Channel will be fast over the next couple of weeks...

Fingers crossed (or not ) everything works out OK

[Michaelangelo]

Hi Folks and MF especially, just a quick q on the hand orientation so to speak.

Confusingly, I ordered two sets of hands to start with. Since Mira only has two hands and doesn't plan on turning into Shiva, I now have an extra set of hands.

Anyway, my order error was actually, er, handy, because I started finger assembly by snipping BOTH L and R loops off of one set and mixing the fingers up. Thankfully I have the other set properly sorted still.

But, if I do want to use (or sell here on TDF) the other fingers: is there any way to tell the L from the R? I can't see any difference except with the thumbs. Any tips here would be useful. Maybe it's clearer once they are assembled?

[MannequinFan]

Hi Folks and MF especially, just a quick q on the hand orientation so to speak.

Confusingly, I ordered two sets of hands to start with. Since Mira only has two hands and doesn't plan on turning into Shiva, I now have an extra set of hands.

Anyway, my order error was actually, er, handy, because I started finger assembly by snipping BOTH L and R loops off of one set and mixing the fingers up. Thankfully I have the other set properly sorted still.

But, if I do want to use (or sell here on TDF) the other fingers: is there any way to tell the L from the R? I can't see any difference except with the thumbs. Any tips here would be useful. Maybe it's clearer once they are assembled?

Hey Michaelangelo,

The finger parts are identical for R & L except for the thumb piece that connects to the palm plate. Those are handed so the thumb angle will be correct for R & L. As long as you leave the finger blocks (which are labeled) together it shouldn't be a problem. I recommend just doing one finger at a time so you don't get the individual pieces mixed up since they are not labeled. See my post here regarding assembly.

[Michaelangelo]

Hi Folks and MF especially, just a quick q on the hand orientation so to speak.

Confusingly, I ordered two sets of hands to start with. Since Mira only has two hands and doesn't plan on turning into Shiva, I now have an extra set of hands.

Anyway, my order error was actually, er, handy, because I started finger assembly by snipping BOTH L and R loops off of one set and mixing the fingers up. Thankfully I have the other set properly sorted still.

But, if I do want to use (or sell here on TDF) the other fingers: is there any way to tell the L from the R? I can't see any difference except with the thumbs. Any tips here would be useful. Maybe it's clearer once they are assembled?

Hey Michaelangelo,

The finger parts are identical for R & L except for the thumb piece that connects to the palm plate. Those are handed so the thumb angle will be correct for R & L. As long as you leave the finger blocks (which are labeled) together it shouldn't be a problem. I recommend just doing one finger at a time so you don't get the individual pieces mixed up since they are not labeled. See my post here regarding assembly.

Hi MF,

Many thanks for the speedy reply! That's good to know. And yes, I'm glad I actually started following your instructions soon enough to not unsnip all the fingers first

Just another q if I may -- did you actually post the further instructions on the eye bolt you mention at the end of your post? I think I'll be all right on that when it comes to it -- it's really the stripping down and the position of the tack weld I'm most not looking forward to -- but if you do have any more instructions that would be fantastic. The hand assembly instructions are very, very useful and I'll be referring to them as I proceed.

Cheers,

Mike

[MannequinFan]

Just another q if I may -- did you actually post the further instructions on the eye bolt you mention at the end of your post? I think I'll be all right on that when it comes to it -- it's really the stripping down and the position of the tack weld I'm most not looking forward to -- but if you do have any more instructions that would be fantastic. The hand assembly instructions are very, very useful and I'll be referring to them as I proceed.

The eye bolt install is pretty simple. If you are using the regular M6 eye bolts you'll need to epoxy them in place. With the Nylok nut version of course you won't want to do this.
1. First, use a q-tip to clean out any powder residue that may be left in the palm plate hole.
2. Using a q-tip stick (with swab cut off) mix and apply a thin coat of epoxy in the palm plate hole.
3. Apply generous coat of epoxy to the eye bolt making sure the threads are completely filled.
4. Insert eye bolt giving it a few twists to make sure epoxy is spread evenly.

[Michaelangelo]

Thank you for this!

[Michaelangelo]

So, all the parts are here and the hands are assembled. I'll be painting them this week and also starting the surgery.

Does anyone know of any other videos apart from the (superb) Dollyman one? I was just wondering if anyone had posted up a video featuring the newer MF hands with the cool joints rather than wires (which I have, they feel really super-strong).

I'll also be trying to shoot some pics and maybe even video of the hopefully successful hand replacement for Mira, as a thank-you to the community

Mike

[Michaelangelo]

OK, random thought I had on seal up...

You know these incisions I'm seeing done the way Dollyman has suggested are fairly small and looking pretty clean and neat.
Would there be some merit in just doing a semi-permanent seal up?
That way if something needs to be fixed or upgraded, you could just re-open the same incision instead of having to make a new one.

A while back I did a test with Permatex windshield sealant and it worked fairly well when the surfaces to be joined were cleaned with acetone...
https://youtu.be/meDZCFrhNJw


In time the bond did loosen and I was able to pull the two pieces apart.
Could that be a benefit in this case?
It also doesn't act as a solvent so you don't have to worry about it melting the TPE or widening the incision.

Anyway, maybe a dumb idea - just thought I'd throw it out there.

I'd be very interested to know if anyone else has tried this. It's not exactly easily available here in the EU (like 10x more expensive than in the States) but perhaps an option. I could only find the adhesive version, not the flowable version on Amazon, for example.

Also: I thought silicone (like on holdup stockings) always acts as a solvent on TPE?

[Dollyman25442]

I'm sure my question has been addressed earlier in the thread but slogging through 55 pages is a bit daunting lol.
Has the MF system been revised to also work with 6ye dolls at this point?
Claire's right hand has gone floopy and I'd love to repair it!
Thanks in advance for pointers