1 week old and already needs a vagina repair

[DrDemento789]

I do wish I knew about the stuff before I tried the spoon method could have just cut off a small chunk of tpe, add a little bit of the adhesive on, and just pushed it into the wound. Give it 24 hours and then repeat on the other side.
would have been a nice easy fix and it wouldn't matter if it looks bad because it's internal. Damn where was this advice two weeks ago...

[Wheezer]

But Xylene does work, just not in paste form and in my tests pure Xylene did fuse TPE pieces together fully. I didn't see much tests about thick paste in that thread and I'd be very interested to see a test where 2 pieces of TPE are fused together using very thick TPE paste made with 3M. If it really works and pieces don't separate when pulling hard then I'll order that primer at once lol.

I think thick tar-like 100% bonding TPE paste is the holy grail of TPE repairing and would solve so many problems.

I’m glad Xylene worked for you in your application. If you are comfortable with that and it meets all your needs, then that is all you seem to need to bond TPE. Just like there are many ways to smooth TPE, this is another one to bond or weld TPE.

You seem to have a very specific repair goal in mind - so how about this?

Take some pics of the damage area that is your “holy grail” repair and post on that thread. Indicate what was your prior TPE repair failure point and what you want to fix. That way I can devise a test to close to the problem and post results. If it works, then great. If not, then the limitation are known to all.

The other one would be that you get some 3M and try it on your problem and posts the results to let everyone know. More tests with different TPE and different situations would help everyone out.

Cheers!
… W …

[Wheezer]

Kind of worried about the toxicity of the adhesive especially in such a used place. So you use the adhesive to make a paste use glass tubes to prevent it from going too deep into the orifice and just fill it up? I think I am over my head with this one I can't even do a simple weld.

The glass tube up the bung hole is to RETAIN the hole when you apply paste around it. I assume you don't want it sealed shut. From what I read you had the cheeks spread and under tension. When the heat hit .. SPROING ... the TPE split. Can you get a picture with the area in a relaxed state? That would give a another indication of the scope of the repair.

Actually you are not filling it all up, just trying to get both sides to bond again. Hopefully using as little filer as needed. Look at the Kimber knee repair. When flexed it is a gaping chasm, but when compressed not so bad. You want the same thing with the butt. The TPE in a relaxed state when you try the repair.

But why not practice first? Remove her head and take a few chunks out of the top of her neck. Make a paste with the 3M primer. Apply it to the places you took out the TPE on her neck and test it there. If you can't do it or is does not work, then no loss.

Cheers!
... W ...

[DrDemento789]

Boy your confidence in me is phenomenal! And while that may work for gaps sealing them up how would it work for a an anus / vagina that you would need to spread open occasionally? I think just opening it up it would tear after a few uses.

I will try to get pictures of the closed vagina / anus within the next few days. it doesn't look so bad when closed up but spread up it looks like chop suey. Besides the bottom of the vagina it's pretty much still intact I only worked on the anus

[seagull]

The results so far with the 3M product are little short of absolutely amazing.
Anyone willing to try this stuff out using the advice of the experts will not be disappointed

[Wheezer]

Boy your confidence in me is phenomenal! And while that may work for gaps sealing them up how would it work for a an anus / vagina that you would need to spread open occasionally? I think just opening it up it would tear after a few uses. ...

The closed picture should show how bad the damage is in a relaxed state. That is how you will repair it. If all that happened was a split due to tension and catastrophic breaking of the TPE bonds due to heat, then the relaxed state should show a relatively minor tear. Not like you took scissors to it and hacked out chunks of TPE (that is another type of repair).

My confidence in you is based on what you will need to repair this, assuming it was a tension split. You would need to place her in relaxed state with the wounds closed. Then gently open the wound, clean with a bit of alcohol on a brush and let dry. Then repeat the same thing with brush using a bit of the 3M primer deep into the wound. Let flash a bit then realign the pieces so they natural again. Keep in that position until cured. Your skill set will be the ability to position your doll, the hand-eye coordination to brush some fluid into a wound, then the patience to wait until it cures. I am fairly certain you can do that. Based upon the depth you may have to do this twice, once deep and once closer to the surface.

The tough part will be accomplished by the 3M primer. It is designed to promote bonding, not just a solvent. Testing by myself and others has led us to observe that the solution BONDS the TPE, with the cured bond being as strong and as flexible as the source TPE. Items with deep wounds have been repaired with this solution and still flex as natural, without breaking.

Since your doll is relatively young (maybe 90 days?) it is not like there have been a lot of oils, powders solvents, cleaners or other fluids down there. Every doll is a bit different due to age, care (what went on it and what went into it) and who made it (type of TPE). So it is impossible to say one solution will fix every problem. Nothing on the planet is 100% right for 100% of everything. However I have a high confidence that if the wound area is not contaminated and the TPE blend is decent, you can achieve success.

In this case the repair is really down to the prep work - how you clean the wound, align it, add the solution and keep in a relaxed state until cured. No different than painting a car. You can have the best paint in the world, but if your body work and prep work aren't good, you won't get a good finish.

Cheers!
... W ...

[DrDemento789]

Here is pictures of the relaxed state. Not bad for the vagina but the anus looks far from a perfect crack.





If I do use this glue I probably need to make a filler paste with tpe I can't imagine it being able to stretch too wide enough for her to at least sit without stretching it open.

[Wheezer]

Not too bad from the pictures. The key with the anus is glass or something to make sure it does not seal up. Should be about the size of the relaxed hole. You probably don;t need anti-seal protection for the vagina. That would looks under the vagina, between the vagina and anus.

One item with the 3M primer is that it was designed to promote adhesion of a sticky item (tape) to the primed substrate. It's not a single chemical solvent. It is not a glue that works on the surface only. When applied it has been observed to BOND the TPE together. So -for her anus- insert protective device then spread wound a bit. Apply to the deep part of the wound with a brush and while still wet liquid on both side of the wound close it up. Wait 24 hours. Test bond. Add more as the first time higher up. Wait 24 hours. Test bond. Brush on paste it needed to smooth, in your case I would avoid heat to smooth Using sufficient primer to wet both side and sufficient cure time are important. If you look at the post showing an elbow repair I did not follow this and the first time it did not hold. Second time (wet and wait) worked well. The stress involved in a elbow over a joint is as much, if not more, that the stress applied here.

For her vagina, same steps. Deep and wet, wait, test, repeat again further up. This should work if the split was from heat and the two parts fit fairly close.

If they do not fit closely, then try using paste to seal the parts. First a thinner paste, if the parts fit close. Thicker if really wide. From the anus looks like thin, probably thicker for vagina if you have to go that way. Note that the cured paste might feel sticky on the surface when done. That is for the additives that promote adhesion, not just melt the TPE. This goes away after an oiling and powdering.

Thick paste can be used for contouring. You have limited time to texture before the solvent flashes and the surface cures. An oiled finger wiped across the surface soon after application can give you a decent level of smoothing. You can also use primer brushed on the surface of the paste to smooth. The level of effectiveness depends on the level of cure. Soon after application the paste is not cured through and primer will liquefy the surface layer and the bits below. Once it starts to cure deeper any large bumps are effectively set and do not "blend down" as easily. With heat application (knife, air gun, etc.) you are liquefying a deeper level for smoothing.

Take your time and you should get a good flexible bond.

Cheers!
... W ..

[DrDemento789]

Guess i will wait for a video that's pretty much how I got a good idea on how to fix basic surface tears with a heat gun, oil and sandpaper. I do have another doll I could test on I could try and make a paste to fix her knee to get some experience. Would you say just use isopropyl alcohol to clean the area or nail polish remover? Should I hit the wound with the heat gun first to get a better adhesive or would that be overkill?

[seagull]

Getting a work area clean is essential for any repair to be successful

[Wheezer]

Guess i will wait for a video that's pretty much how I got a good idea on how to fix basic surface tears with a heat gun, oil and sandpaper. I do have another doll I could test on I could try and make a paste to fix her knee to get some experience. Would you say just use isopropyl alcohol to clean the area or nail polish remover? Should I hit the wound with the heat gun first to get a better adhesive or would that be overkill?

Avoid any harsh chemicals or heat. Both will deform or damage the two sides of the wound and make repair more difficult.
A knee fix should be easy. See my thread for a knee repair on a Kimber. The steps are pretty straitforward.

• 1) Open wound, clean out with a little isopropyl alcohol on a q-tip. Some folks use the alcohol wipes. Let dry.
  2) Place knee in a relaxed state, the TPE should be almost closed. This is the RELAXED STATE. This is how it will cure.
  3) Open wound with your fingers, do not flex knee or get out of the relaxed state.
  4) With a brush or swab apply some 3M 94 primer to the both sides of the wound to wet it. Deepest part first.
  5) Close wound. Leave in the relaxed state for 12 to 24 hours to insure a good cure. More time is better than less.

AVOID Acetone, nail polish remover or ANY harsh chemical cleaner on your doll. You just want to remove the excess debris and get the join surfaces clean. The residual oil in the TPE will not adversely impact the performance of the 3M primer solution. Other bonding solutions may not be as tolerant. Just remember that you want to gently clean her, not strip her down to the skeleton.

If you look over the thread you will see a knee repair before and after and an elbow repair, both high stress areas. Even a situation where I did not wait for it to cure sufficiently, but did recover and fix it when I waiting for it to cure.

But practice is good. You will get a feel of what works on your doll. Very good idea.

Cheers!
.. W ...

[seagull]

Sort of the same subject, used some windscreen sealant to plug a hole in tpe cavity about a year ago, was able to pull it out and noticed it was a little sticky.
Did the job but probably not an ideal long term solution in light of Indigo's CWA and Wheezer's posts of the 3M stuff

[Wheezer]

Sort of the same subject, used some windscreen sealant to plug a hole in tpe cavity about a year ago, was able to pull it out and noticed it was a little sticky.
Did the job but probably not an ideal long term solution in light of Indigo's CWA and Wheezer's posts of the 3M stuff

Not sure of the stickiness was due to a TPE-Silicone reaction or just the curing of the silicone.

Most "sealant" one part self curing silicones cure by absorbing water from the air for the reaction. No problem if the windscreen sealant is used as designed, the layer will not be that deep and it will cure as expected. Too thick and a cured skin forms on the top that drastically reduces the transfer of the water deeper into the silicone mass. You end up with an item that is cured on the outside, but still goop on the inside. Anyone who has attempted to make a mold for something using just silicone sealer has found this out You CAN get around it by mixing in something that has bonded water or is hygroscopic (water attractant), along with a thinner to assist in pouring. The resulting mass will cure through but won't be as flexible as the original sealant or TPE.

If you use Xylene as the silicone thinner to adjust mixture thickness and and adjust the hygroscopic curing accelerant you might end up with a TPE/Silicone bonding agent that bonds the silicone to TPE and prevents the oil-attack reaction. I say MIGHT since long duration sample tests have not been completed.

Cheers!
... W ...

[seagull]

Forgot to mention the sticky washed off and I'm left with a mould of the top of the cavity, Fugly mate!

[Wheezer]

A fugly with a moldy cavity .... hmmm .... sounds like a girl I heard of in High School. Ewwww !

But for a doll with fugly mold, you might want to try a water based bathroom cleaner. Not sure what they have where you are located. Some areas of the world are in a "pure mode" and don't allow any cleanser stronger than a dirty look or menacing scowl. However I have been using this stuff as a final rinse to prevent mold. Any liquid left if not fully dried will not promote mold. Not sure if it would kill embedded stuff, but since it is designed to kill off HIV-1, mold might not stand a chance. You might have something similar there.

81cFHeEhl5L._AC_SL1500_(300).jpg (56.08 KiB) Viewed 710 times

Cheers!
... W ...