3M 94 Primer – Application as a TPE Glue / Cold Weld

[muesky6969]

Well if her new owner complains about her sparkly bits I am going to blame it on you Seagull.. LOL!!

As the blue doll is going to have scale textured skin, is a bit of sparkle on the nether bits a bit over kill?
Go for it muesky

Okay so I totally forgot I had already started a thread about the modifications I am going to be doing and the dolls I will be working on.. viewtopic.php?f=229&t=145649&p=2077232#p2077232

I got the scale stamps finished today.. Here is a picture of the stamps and to show they work..

Scale brands.jpg (108.66 KiB) Viewed 695 times

So a couple of days ago when I was experimenting with the tpe paste paint, I was practicing on the scales I had stamped out with another stamp idea.. I used some iridescent paint and a bit darker blue to highlight the scales, and it looked amazing.. So that is going on the list of modifications I am doing to the blue doll.

Here is what I found with the paste paint. First you want to use tpe that has the similar density as the doll you are using on it, especially areas that may move like around elbows, knees, etc. . You need to prime the area with primer first then heat the tpe, before applying the paint. Once the paint has dried, run the heat gun over it again to set it.. When I did this I could not even pick it off without tearing the tpe under it.. Right now I am just going to stick with powdered pigment.. Because of the additional chemicals in oil paints, I just do not have time to figure out if this will work.. If anyone has the time to work on this and will share their findings I would greatly appreciate the input..

Oh I almost forgot.. So in areas where there is no movement and you want to give a bit of raised texture you could always use a firmer density TPE.. I am going to do this on the scales to make them pop!!!

[seagull]

I am going to do this on the scales to make them pop!!!

When these images are posted, might take the precaution of viewing them sitting down

[RevJack]

Referencing "Do you all think a bit of sparkle on the nether bits is a bit over kill?? "

I felt a little sparkle in my nether bits thinking about her blue sparkling nether bits.

'nough said.

[seagull]

Pretty sure you weren't the only one RevJack

[muesky6969]

Pretty sure you weren't the only one RevJack

LOL!! You guys are so funny! I mean, as a chick I wouldn't mind it my nether bits sparkled. But as guys you wouldn't be a bit freaked venturing south and she has bling going on down there?? I mean, not strobe lights and big sequins but with glitter on her girl tips and the lower flower... Cuz I have absolutely no idea..

[RevJack]

Muesky,
You really need to get out to some nice, seedy strip clubs. Body glitter EVERYWHERE is really pretty common.
About 5 years ago there was a Vagina bedazzle craze in the club scene, where little CZ rhinestones were glued in patterns on the pubis and mons.
https://www.more.com/fashion/vajazzling ... ur-crotch/
I loved it from a visual perspective. Functionally, the rhinestones presented issues.
I mean, so I heard. In confession.

Rev Jack.

[muesky6969]

It has been a while since I have been to a strip club, seedy or otherwise.. Bedazzled va-jay-jays... Well that is interesting but yeah I could see there being issues with the rhinestones..

Basically what I am thinking is adding a bit of sparkly pigment to the TPE paint when I paint her nipples and labia.. The factory painted them a dark blue, that of course washed right off with just a bit of oil and was waaayyyy to blue.. Since she is supposed to be a water critter I thought a little bit of sparkle would go with the scales being stamped and painted on her body.. Just wasn't sure that guys would appreciate glittery bits..

Here is the thing, this doll will be a one of a kind.. In the future I may make another undine but not like this one.. Kind of hate doing the same thing over and over again.. I want her to look elegant and lovely, but what that means to me and what that may mean to someone else is two different things. Tomorrow I start stamping scales... Today I need to clean the doll to prepare her.. I might start on her ears, tonight.. Her ears should be fun and I am really looking forward to grafting and shaping them, as they will be a bit different then the elf ears I have done previously..

Oh and I think I have figured out how to make the webbed fingers and toes that the webbing can expand and contract.. That is going to take some experimenting to make sure they will work..

Muesky,
You really need to get out to some nice, seedy strip clubs. Body glitter EVERYWHERE is really pretty common.
About 5 years ago there was a Vagina bedazzle craze in the club scene, where little CZ rhinestones were glued in patterns on the pubis and mons.
https://www.more.com/fashion/vajazzling ... ur-crotch/
I loved it from a visual perspective. Functionally, the rhinestones presented issues.
I mean, so I heard. In confession.

Rev Jack.

[Dollyman25442]

I’ve done some experiments with a variety of bonding methods in preparation for one of my dolls repairs (a vaginal rip which equates to a high stress area) and thought I’d share my findings with the group. The comparisons are by no means scientific but I will share my observations. It’s important to remember, tpe blends vary greatly and your results could be quite different than mine.
The blend I’m working with happens to be 6ye amore (an insert).

I will rate each method from one to ten, one having no holding power ten having a holding power that I was unable to separate with great force.

Primer 94 both straight and as a paste-3
Xylene both straight and as a paste-5
Indigo cold weld system-5
Heat station hot air (105 degrees)-8
See them here
https://www.amazon.com/YIHUA-Soldering- ... 709&sr=8-8

Conclusions-
· The primer 94 is quite safe to work with in terms of creating additional damage to a repair area (however quite harmful to breath, use a respirator) but has little if any holding power for a high stress area although very useful for non-stress areas.
· The Xylene is tricky and can melt tpe on contact. It has a holding power better than Primer 94 but probably isn’t going to be a robust repair in high stress areas.
· The cold weld system available from member Indigo is very safe to use both in terms of application and for health concerns but given the great expense and virtually equal strength compared to Xylene, it just isn’t worth the trouble (and yes, I followed the instructions EXACTLY).
· Heat station hot air at 105 degrees had the most holding power and is fairly easy to master but should also be done either outside or with a respirator or both as tpe fumes are quite harmful.

Note-it’s important to mention that none of the above methods worked well without repair edge areas smoothed over with heat (spoon and blowtorch method or a variable soldering iron with a flat faced woodworking burn tool face noted in my earlier post within thread). Without this detail, all the repairs could be separated without much difficulty.

Post script-Heat being the most robust of the methods, I’m thinking for my repair (vaginal rip) a hot knife rather than a hot air station will be the best method as two edges must be heated at the same time and drawn closed almost instantaneously. I’ll amend my conclusions with that as a final test and of course document the actual repair itself.
As an aside, the Primer paste fill on the sides of the vagina (see earlier post within this thread) seemed to work well although I still need to use my wood working soldering iron tool to smooth it over).
An example of a good hot knife
https://www.amazon.com/VCT-Knife-Cutter ... 03&sr=8-22

[seagull]

That is thorough Dollyman, looking forwards to the final result of the proposed vag repair

[seagull]

Umm RevJack
I loved it from a visual perspective...I mean, so I heard. In confession.

[Blisst]

No idea how to bookmark an individual post so i'm tagging this for my own reference

Thought this quick & dirty list might be useful for
3M 94 Primer
3M VHB Tape Universal Primer UV

TPE Body Parts
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728

Texturing
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=30
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=240

Bonding dissimilar materials & TPE Paste
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=45

Veins, Tattoos, Dye, & Molds
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=60
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=330

Vaginal Sleeves
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=105

Paste Mixing
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=120
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=135

Face Reconstruction
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=135

Applying Paste
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=150
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=285

Hands, Feet & Stress Cracks
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=165

Skin Paste
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=180

Blemishes & Aging
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=195

Cold Smoothing
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=210


Cleaners for 94 & VHB
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=225

Results
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=240

Tattoos
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=255

Vaginal Repair
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=300

Storing Paste Coloration
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=315

Wound Tutorial
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=345

Sculpting
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&start=360

[Blisst]

TPE Replacement Nipples – Simple Cold Casting from TPE paste

Some of my research is getting a bit …er.. “Out There”, so I decided to loop back to something more useful to the typical doll owner. That is making replacement or enhanced nipples for a TPE doll. I’ve needed these for Piper and another doll, so it made sense to cover an easy way to do it.

If your TPE doll’s nipples get damaged then there are not really a lot of options available. On the high end are medical grade replacement nipples down to “party poppers” (inserts to make them look firm for an outing). Unfortunately all are silicone. I wanted a replacement nipple of TPE that could be easily and permanently attached to the doll. Plus something simple that any doll user could make. The following should do that.

What makes this easy is using a pre made silicone nipple mold and not having to create a mold yourself. Several available silicone nipple “enhancers” are designed to fit OVER the existing female nipple, thus have a hollow back that is a perfect size and shape for our slightly scaled down dolls. For this molding a simple type was used (see below). Any similar silicone nipples could be used, as long as they have a hollow back. The TPE paste works well since it does not stick to the silicone.

01-Silicone_Nipples.jpg

tagging this one too
Castings are very simple, fill with TPE paste then wait for it to cure. In this cast the nipple used about 0.5ml of paste, and the areola area was filled with 15ml of paste. For these the nipple was cast with a semi-firm paste made with 3M VHB, then the areola was cast with a soft paste made with 3M 94. This gives the result multiple textures and a very realistic feeling. If you are going to cast with multiple types of paste, then put some pure primer on top of the first cast before adding the second material. This will insure a solid and unified result.

02-Mold Sequence.jpg

To hold the molds nipple down when curing a small plastic cup works well. You could also use a tube or any similar object. Just use something to hold it solid and upright during the curing process.

The actual volume of paste you use may vary, due to the ratio of primer to TPE. A thicker paste will cure faster and shrink less, but may result in trapped air or an incomplete mold. A thinner paste will catch all the internal details but will cure slower and shrink more. If you are not happy with your first results, then chop it up and return it to the paste jar!
When the paste cures it will shrink, resulting in a concave back surface. That side effect is positive for the nipples. You will get a curved back that will fit the dolls breast in a natural manner, and a thin edge to assist in blending.

When you think they are cured (either by waiting sufficiently or by passing the “sniff test”) they still may be soft inside. If you place then flat on a surface they may slowly collapse down. A simple wire folder will help prevent this. This holds the mold nipple down (preventing deformation) and also increases the surface area for evaporation.

When cured you should have nipples that look like the ones below. You can attach them to your doll and color them as you see fit.

03-Sample Cast Nips.jpg

The next step with these nipples will be to color and finish them using a combination of 3M primer based paint and powders before installing. This will give a permanent and flexible coloring. More details on that in future posts.

Hope this help to make easy replacement TPE nipples.

Cheers!
… W …

[Dollyman25442]

Here is the final repair on Tink using 64 paste, and a combination spoon method and variable heat woodworking tool. Images are after oiling and powder.
While not flawless, it came out pretty good.
Will it hold up to use? That's yet to be determined. I doubt it.
Click the images to get very up close for examining the work.

Before-


After-


Seems almost impossible to keep from browning the tpe even with the lightest settings
But I admit, the camera lens isn't very forgiving. It's not quite as bad in person.

[seagull]

Might not be flawless but dayam! That looks good

[Dollyman25442]

Might not be flawless but dayam! That looks good

Thanks!
High praise coming from you