New Nipple Monday at Reverend Jacks

RevJack · Post by **RevJack** » Wed Jun 01, 2022 9:49 am

It's Monday, and I need a new pair of nipples for an impending breast reduction.
SO,
* Make a little tinfoil box.
* Put my nipple positives in the box (nipple up.)
* Pour my mold material over the nipple positives. (I used a casting wax this time as a experiment, I have also used GE Silicone caulk, GE Silicone Caulk thinned with alcohol, Melted non-sulpher clay, alginate, smooth-on silicone)
*Let mold material cool/harden/coagulate. (cool in the case of wax)
* Peel off the tinfoil box while cussing at the stupid idea to make a box out of tinfoil. The wax flowed into the folds in the corners ans was a bitch.
* Peel out my perky Nipple positives and set aside.
For these nipples I mixed two colors of TPE paste, a pinker one for the nips and a pale pink for the areola.
* Scoop Pinker TPE paste into the nip tips.
* Go have dinner and a bourbon.
* Come back and scoop pale pink into the areola, until it is level with the back of the mold.
* Wait, wait, wait,
* Ponder over why there are so many damn bubbles rising to the surface, then realize that like an idiot I stirred the pale pink TPE paste to ensure the powdered pigments were evenly disbursed, and like a bigger idiot didn't wait for the TPE Paste to settle before using it. SHIT SHIT SHIT.
* So I paint a little tape primer over the surface to re-soften it and allow some bubbles to pop.
* Sneak in and fill the popped bubbles with TPE Paste using the tip of a toothpick, unfortunately that did not hide the evidence.
* Now I am still waiting to decant my new nipples. Perhaps tonight. Since the wax mold is non-pourous all the solvent has to gas off though the solidified TPE, which is a long and frustrating process.

RevJack · Post by **RevJack** » Thu Jun 02, 2022 10:12 pm

Thursday night, it's Nipple Decanting Time!
So I powder the backside,
Tease the nipple gently out and
Hallelujah! Praise be to nipples!
So what did we learn? Well due to the Big damn bubble on the tip of the right nipple I think we can all agree that stirring the TPE before putting it in the mold is definitely a sin. I'll try to fill it in with a toothpick when no one is watching.
Another interesting tit-bit is the casting wax I used, not good. The wax is probably softened with mineral oil, which was pulled out of the mold by the TPE. So there is erosion in my wax mold. Not much, but I noticed. If I use a mold release I can't reuse the wax, so I think I will retire my mold wax from TPE service and go back to silicone.
And now, may I present, THE NIPPLES...

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Sat Jun 04, 2022 3:16 am

Got texture! Pity the hole wasn't in the middle, might have gotten away with it
Still, a valuable learning process and these nips are recyclable

Wheezer · Post by **Wheezer** » Sat Jun 25, 2022 11:08 pm

Great molding and good idea for the mold (wax).

There are only two ways to really cure paste, time or temperature.
With a wax mold or the like time works. If you molded a master with silicone you can use temperature.

For my nips a I cast a silicone mold from a clay master. Then add paste and bake in dedicated small toaster over at 250F for 10 mins. Take out, brush top top with oil to smooth and pop back in for 10 mins. Repeat twice more if needed. The TPE paste has a lower melt point that the raw TPE so it fills in all the crevices and details nicely.

When time up them place in a tray with ice and water to cool the mold down. Demold and done. You can use different types/colors of TIP for nips, areola, etc. to suit your taste.

Just a suggestion.
Cheers!
... W ...

suppy · Post by **suppy** » Sun Jun 26, 2022 12:25 am

Cool thread! I would like to mod/customize the nips on my gal but make em even more outrageous! i have tried a few things but nothing has worked out
i wouldn't want it to be permanent change but i think making some mold impressions to over lay may give me the look im after while being able to remove them without damage
Not saying it will be easy but i do have some exp with making TPE paste...i have a batch brewing up. Alas i have no experience with making a mold...i need to learn some more
Thanks and Cheers!

Wheezer · Post by **Wheezer** » Sun Jun 26, 2022 2:00 am

suppy wrote: ↑Sun Jun 26, 2022 12:25 am Cool thread! I would like to mod/customize the nips on my gal but make em even more outrageous! i have tried a few things but nothing has worked out
i wouldn't want it to be permanent change but i think making some mold impressions to over lay may give me the look im after while being able to remove them without damage
Not saying it will be easy but i do have some exp with making TPE paste...i have a batch brewing up. Alas i have no experience with making a mold...i need to learn some more
Thanks and Cheers!

Oddly enough, it seems that the hardest part of the process in making the mold is finding the correct size container to make the mold (that is once you have completed your master).
Those short and squat plastic tubs sometimes used for condiments are usually the right size for nipple and other little bits. As long as it is LARGER than your master item it will work. It will work even better if it has a good draft angle. That is wider at the bottom that the top.

Cut the bottom off (since it is now your top) then SEAL it to the flat plat that holds your master. Make sure to seal it well since the poured silicone mold stuff will find EVERY little hole and leak out. Then just spray a bit of mold release in the cup with the master and our in your two part silicone. Wait until cured, pop off the cup and gently peel the mold away from the master. There are many tutorials out there about making two part silicone molds for small parts.

If you want OUTRAGOUS then perhaps you need to look at a two part mold. That would allow you to cast a bit of a hollow interior to compensate for the existing doll nipple. Many real add on nipples for human gals are designed and molded like that.

In that case the nip might be a puffy or such, much more pronounced than the existing one. Sculpt what you like and make a silicone mold of that. Then sculpt and cure something that approximates the existing nipple. The close to the current one the better. When you do the master for the existing nipple, make it on a small flat plate. If you are using TPE paste to fill the mold, then drill a few around the perimeter. This will allow excess paste to get out and to fill in more if you need while curing. As an alternate you could drill a larger hole through the center of this "depression mold" ( the second one on the pate) to allow filling (thus creating a casting sprue)

Fill the nipple mold with molten TPE or paste and pace the depression mold on top. Some TPE may ooze out the holes, while other stuff will be displaced over the top of the master mold to create a thin "blending skin" on the edges. If you are using paste and heat curing, then you will need to add more paste as volume in the mold will decease as the solvent evaporates. You will need to practice a bit to get it right, but failure can be either melted again or made in paste for later use.

When complete you will have a new nipple that fits over your exiting doll nipple and is pure TPE and will not react badly with your doll. Attach using spirit gum over the existing nipple, blend in the thin edge and then detail color a bit to taste. When done with that one you can remove the spirit gum with a bit of alcohol. if you want a permanent bond then you can glue it 3M 94 primer.

Good luck!
... W ...

sparklydocs · Post by **sparklydocs** » Sun Sep 17, 2023 5:01 am

I'm planning to buy some 2 part Silicone rubber compound (Tin cured with shore rating 28) to have a go at making a mould of a pair of silicone nipples I have (number 3 on pics), so that I could cold cast a duplicate pair in TPE, to attach to a TPE doll.

Does anyone know how to make TPE paste so that it sets a bit 'firmer' with a similar firmness as silicone? I'd like the nipples to be a bit of a firmer texture than the TPE breast itself - I find the TPE nipples on the doll a bit too stretch/squishy!

Not sure if I would need to add anything extra when making the TPE paste, to achieve a firmer set? (making paste using 3M 94 primer and shavings of TPE in a darker skin tone to doll)

homersexual · Post by **homersexual** » Sun Sep 17, 2023 6:12 am

3m Primer yielded poor results for me, so please take my advice as just that.

Using TPE Glue in sealed tube with TPE pieces I was able to get firmer results after leaving sealed and allowing it to dry out before repeating the process. from the same a TPE as the doll itself. This happened mostly because I repeated the process. I believe that oil directly affects this (anyone correct me if wrong as to why this happens) and re-oiling can revive firmer TPE pieces.

I am also looking to create parts and have ideas I'm working on right now. I have successfully molded other toys for grafting, but would like reliable TPE samples that would work with WM before proceeding. The more I "pasted" TPE with solvent, the firmer it became each time it re solidified. This was done a lot for her entrance. Using a kind of stint I was able to no only firm the TPE of her canal, but even reshape and enlarged it.

For nipples I am thinking about melting pots and molds.

RevJack · Post by **RevJack** » Sun Sep 17, 2023 9:56 am

Well, I hate to hijack my own thread back, but I am.
I appreciate that some may not have worked out how to use the 3M product, but most of us have. And this post is about a completely 100% successful use of the 3M product to make permanently tinted nipples. Homer, feel free to make your own thread showing your process and success, but please stop negating my success and my desire to share that success. I am also very vocal on my refusal to use a "Mystery Solvent" just because someone in China slapped a sticker on it. Xylene is super cheap and the srongest TPE solvent I am aware of, and completely consistent.

To Sparklydocs question:
There are a number of folks who recommend against casting TPE in silicone, especially Tin Cured silicone.
I strongly recommend using Hydrocal (which is a super strong casting plaster) for copying those delightful Roanyer nipples. The silicone of the master and the TPE of the copy are soft and flexible enough to pull right out. Ditto for casting copies of silicone pussy lips or even your favorite TPE pussy lips. Tin-cured silicone MAY work, but I would not risk it.

As to the firmness of the nipples, I have used a firmer TPE to start with, from a pocket pussy to achieve a firmer result. I also think that my use of mica powders as a colorant may have caused a slight increase in firmness due to them being a solid in the TPE suspension.
Wheezer hopefully will confirm/deny this but I think if you cast with an oil-starved TPE the matrix will cure tighter, where if you super-saturate the liquid TPE with oil the matrix will cure larger (softer). I FEEL that I have achieved this result, but have not measured it so I have no empiracle evidence.

An alternative to using solvents is to gently melt the TPE and pour it into the nipple molds. This is on my to-try list but I have many projects ahead in my queue.

Reverend Jack

sparklydocs · Post by **sparklydocs** » Sun Sep 17, 2023 11:08 am

Hi RevJack,

Thanks for the info, deffo going to stick with using the 3M 94 primer to make my TPE paste, simply due to the number of posts referring to this stuff and the fact it is a known/reputable product that is consistent, also me being a total novice at this doll modding lark and not keen on using an unknown generic 'TPE glue' with feck knows what's in it!

Based on Wheezer's post viewtopic.php?p=1813677#p1813677 it does mention using tin cured silicone to make a mould, but I will also give your suggestion of using Hydrocal a try

Space1invader · Post by **Space1invader** » Sun Sep 17, 2023 11:12 am

Congratulactions, great idea! I was thinking more about making tatto...

Wheezer · Post by **Wheezer** » Sun Sep 17, 2023 9:27 pm

RevJack wrote: ↑Sun Sep 17, 2023 9:56 am Well, I hate to hijack my own thread back, but I am.
I appreciate that some may not have worked out how to use the 3M product, but most of us have. And this post is about a completely 100% successful use of the 3M product to make permanently tinted nipples. Homer, feel free to make your own thread showing your process and success, but please stop negating my success and my desire to share that success. I am also very vocal on my refusal to use a "Mystery Solvent" just because someone in China slapped a sticker on it. Xylene is super cheap and the srongest TPE solvent I am aware of, and completely consistent.

Spot on about the Mystery Solvents from China. But if that is what a user wants to use, it is his/her doll.

To me the problem is that results are unknown and have been observed to be inconsistent.

If you have multiple dolls and want to tinker and accept failure and rework, then I guess its OK.
But for a single doll owner ... well consider what you paid for your doll ... and that you only want to do the repair ONCE.

RevJack wrote: ↑Sun Sep 17, 2023 9:56 am To Sparklydocs question:
There are a number of folks who recommend against casting TPE in silicone, especially Tin Cured silicone.
I strongly recommend using Hydrocal (which is a super strong casting plaster) for copying those delightful Roanyer nipples. The silicone of the master and the TPE of the copy are soft and flexible enough to pull right out. Ditto for casting copies of silicone pussy lips or even your favorite TPE pussy lips. Tin-cured silicone MAY work, but I would not risk it.

Just for reference, you CAN use Tin cure silicone rubber for TPE mold masters. I've been making molds using Smooth-On OOMOO-30 two part silicone rubber with good results. I've found the 30 version lets you capture fine detail in the master and still have a dependable multi-use mold for TPE. The 25 version results in a bit softer mold which is more delicate.

The only silicone TPE reactions I have observed came from making multiple hot pour castings one after another and not permitting the mold to cool down. For small batch or single use you should be fine. To be safe I make sure to chill the mold prior to hot casting and use a silicone free mold release agent. This works as not only a mold release but a barrier between the TPE and silicone.

You also CAN make a silicone mold from a silicone master, like the Roanyer nips. What I do is make the mold box, place the silicone master on the base and spray it with a silicone free mold release agent. That stuff is designed for silicone/silicone mold making. Then mix up the rubber and pour it in gently. To be safe I usually spray the silicone master BEFORE I place it in the mold box to insure the release/protection agent gets into all the nooks and crannies. Once cured you have a silicone mold for TPE from a silicone master.

RevJack wrote: ↑Sun Sep 17, 2023 9:56 am As to the firmness of the nipples, I have used a firmer TPE to start with, from a pocket pussy to achieve a firmer result. I also think that my use of mica powders as a colorant may have caused a slight increase in firmness due to them being a solid in the TPE suspension.
Wheezer hopefully will confirm/deny this but I think if you cast with an oil-starved TPE the matrix will cure tighter, where if you super-saturate the liquid TPE with oil the matrix will cure larger (softer). I FEEL that I have achieved this result, but have not measured it so I have no empiracle evidence.

As you observed, oil in the TPE mix will increase the softness. Likewise non-soluble solids (in this case mica powder) will make the TPE feel harder, and actually a bit weaker.

One coloring agent you can use is a artist grade oil paint. Just a VERY SMALL AMOUNT is needed to color the TPE.
You can adjust the final TPE softness by the addition of SMALL amounts of oil. Too much and you get mush that is so soft it never really cures up.
Also since the oil paint has oil in it (duh!) it will increase the softness of the resulting TPE. This works for both TPE paste and hot melt TPE.

RevJack wrote: ↑Sun Sep 17, 2023 9:56 am An alternative to using solvents is to gently melt the TPE and pour it into the nipple molds. This is on my to-try list but I have many projects ahead in my queue.

Reverend Jack

If you are going to do very small hot casting with TPE, you might want to look at a small, inexpensive solder pot. I have a small 150W, 110V unit on the bench I am testing and it looks good so far. The pot is about 50mm, so it won't hold a lot of TPE. The rated temp range is 200-450C, but it is a simple circuit that can be modified, or you can control the input power. The actual heating is just a heater tape with no feedback.

For TPE molding you can melt a bit and then scoop out (say for nipples).
For TPE smoothing you fill the pot with oil and use that to heat and keep your tools at temperature.
For about $18-20 USD per unit it has a lot of potential.

Cheers!
... W ...

MinniMagg · Post by **MinniMagg** » Sun Sep 17, 2023 11:02 pm

Following with great interest.

I have a doll whose nipples were so soft that they simply eroded and picked up a lot of dirt and frayed around the edges. I haven't treated her any different than others, so this phenomenon is really perplexing to me.

Thanks to everyone that's adding info and their unique experiences into this thread that
Started. Everyone's experience has added a little to the collective awareness and creativity of what to do.

I don't see why Rev Jack Felt his Thread was hijacked. These post s and threads grow as people read and contribute to them. Why tell someone to start their own thread when they are contributing to the collective knowledge of doing something such as casting new nipples. These aren't private threads, otherwise over time there'd be thousands to search through to try to find the information presented in this TDF Member thread

Wheezer · Post by **Wheezer** » Mon Sep 18, 2023 12:25 am

homersexual wrote: ↑Sun Sep 17, 2023 6:12 am 3m Primer yielded poor results for me, so please take my advice as just that.

From what I have seen 3M primer paste can yield poor results if the source TPE is in bad shape (starting to go funky), the material to make paste is not really TPE (or a weird blend) OR if the liquid used is not actual 3M 94 primer.

It has been mentioned many times that there are vendors out there that say they sell "3M 94 Primer" but are actually shipping something else.
I'm not saying your stuff was fake, but it has happened before.

Usually the fake stuff is a mix of xylene or another "hot" solvent and a few extender chemicals. The result is that it sort of bonds, but while doing so breaks down the TPE. If used as a "glue", then it looks like it works, since the mass of TPE being attached absorbs and to an extent dilutes the fake 94 primer.

However if the fake stuff is used to make paste, then it is a different story. There is no excess mass of TPE to dilute the stuff. The mystery mix breaks down the TPE to make a goop that looks like paste. But here the TPE in the "paste" has been degraded and will not set up once the solvents evaporate.

As was mentioned, 3M 94 based TPE paste has been made and used by probably hundreds of users with good results.
The only bad results I have seen have been due to the items noted above.

But .... you might have an odd TPE blend with your doll.
Anything is possible.

Cheers!
... W ...

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Mon Sep 18, 2023 2:04 am

Arthur1960 is regarded as one of the most experienced hot-work repair people on this site and found using the 3M product to reliably repair fine doll structures, such as fingers.
As Wheezer mentioned in the previous post, there are reasons why things fail, 3M 94 Primer is not one of them