The Birth of Erica

[55mrradiohead]

CONFESSIONS of a Sex Doll Lover - The Birth of Erica

Yes, I admit it. I've become very passionate over the years with owning some type of sex doll. And to think it all started with having a few 11.5" fashion dolls, which was many moons ago! Recently I purchased a silicone love doll. And while I love the doll, I am NOT crazy about the 110 lbs that she weighs. Especially when it comes time to reposition her for changing clothes or to change her from sitting to standing, etc. Over the years I experimented with making my own life size dolls. This goes back to when the Real Doll was the only love doll on the market and very expensive to buy.

Fast forward to today. I would like to share with the reader my latest project is in the works. I have named her Erica. I have included photos of the *parts* that will give birth to Erica. All of the items are NOT new to me. Over the past 10 years I have built countless life size dolls with the products in the photos. This will be the first time I have used a full body cross dressers silicone bodysuit. Many sellers still want a LOT of money for the bodysuits. I dug and dug on eBay and found a seller that has been running special pricing for less than $200 for a full bodysuit (arms and legs). The one I ordered weighs 12 lbs (5.4 kg).

The process will include modifying the head (filled with styrofoam) and has a plastic base. I removed the base and pull some of the styrofoam out of the neck and head. I will also add *makeup*, which I actually use permanent markers (Sharpie now has tons of shades). The head is vinyl so it holds color very well. The head will just be a about 2 lbs (1 kg) when complete. The attached face picture shows a concept for makeup which I photo-shopped after studying photos of REAL women.

The core of the body is the spandex bodysuit, which is filled with cotton filling (Polyfil). One large box is 5 lbs (1 kg). I estimate the doll body will take about 1.5 boxes to fill out adequately. The spandex bodysuit is a small, which is sized for 5 ft (152 cm). The cotton filling will end up weighing around 7 lbs (3.1 kg). This size of bodysuit can be filled out very snug and retain a body shape without much compacting of the cotton. The key will be getting the spandex body to resemble the desired shape of the female body.

Both the hands and feet are attached inside the silicone bodysuit with permanent adhesive (such as superglue). Each item is about 1/2 lb, so in total no more than 2 lb (.5 kg).

Making the doll so that it becomes a real sex doll is actually an early step in the process. Per the attached picture of the sex toy, the silicone body suit has to be turned inside out so that a modification can be made to the catheter area so that the TPE sex toy can be used as the vagina. I tried this before on silicone pants and silicone shorts. Very carefully one can remove the inner sleeve of the vagina opening on the silicone body suit. Then using a permanent glue (a non stiff superglue), attached to the inside of the opening. The front facing edge of the TPE sex toy has to be remove so that the surface is flat and fits snuggly on the inside. A word of caution that I learned from trial and error and can cause frustration and wasted money IF not paying attention - do not make ANY cuts anywhere near the vaginal opening on the silicone bodysuit where the material stretches. Doing so will only cause it to start ripping upon use and at that point you've already ruined your project.

I will update as the project proceeds, with pictures. Right now I'm waiting for items that have been ordered.

[55mrradiohead]

Just a few extra notes to this project. The goal is to have a finished love doll that is less than 40 lbs (18 kg) that is hyper-realistic. A couple years ago I built one using two parts - ankle length silicone pants and the upper breasts which have the navel, but less the arms. I attached the two parts after I knew I was done with the cotton filling. I waited on that until I knew I had the right look. After gluing together (and I could see the seam), the look of the body just blew me away. The silicone bodysuit has details in the skin that most silicone love dolls do not have.

The last doll I built was this past summer. I like it but there were things I didn't like, plus I learned about NOT making any cuts or nicks in the silicone bodysuit in any area that the material stretches! That doll body was disassembled. I decided to wait awhile and do more research for this project and hopefully this will be my last one that I build.

[ZombieWinter]

Keep us posted! Looks interesting so far.

[DG]

I did something similar with my male doll, Lawrence. Only I bought a 6ft tall stuffed dummy as his base body. I added male silicone feet and hands, plus a spandex bodysuit. Instead of the full body silicone suit, I just did a torso one.

[sillyconnie]

"The key will be getting the spandex body to resemble the desired shape of the female body."

I don't think Polyfil cotton will be enough to make realistic muscles shapes, you might need to add a bit of sculptable medium
You can use a core of pool noodles too, those are extremely light and cheap ( $2.50 for 1m40 ones in a local store for me)

[DG]

"The key will be getting the spandex body to resemble the desired shape of the female body."

I don't think Polyfil cotton will be enough to make realistic muscles shapes, you might need to add a bit of sculptable medium
You can use a core of pool noodles too, those are extremely light and cheap ( $2.50 for 1m40 ones in a local store for me)

Not necessarily true. While a pool noodle core does help (my fabric guys have this too), if you pack the Poly-Fil tight enough, you can "sculpt" it. I've done so.

[sillyconnie]

"The key will be getting the spandex body to resemble the desired shape of the female body."

I don't think Polyfil cotton will be enough to make realistic muscles shapes, you might need to add a bit of sculptable medium
You can use a core of pool noodles too, those are extremely light and cheap ( $2.50 for 1m40 ones in a local store for me)

Not necessarily true. While a pool noodle core does help (my fabric guys have this too), if you pack the Poly-Fil tight enough, you can "sculpt" it. I've done so.

Ah cool thanks for the info !

[55mrradiohead]

"The key will be getting the spandex body to resemble the desired shape of the female body."

I don't think Polyfil cotton will be enough to make realistic muscles shapes, you might need to add a bit of sculptable medium
You can use a core of pool noodles too, those are extremely light and cheap ( $2.50 for 1m40 ones in a local store for me)

Not necessarily true. While a pool noodle core does help (my fabric guys have this too), if you pack the Poly-Fil tight enough, you can "sculpt" it. I've done so.

I agree that polyfil can be stuffed tight enough that you can sculpt the shape of the body in the bodysuit. I've done several with Polyfil and it works every time. But over stuffing can also interfere with the limbs freely moving, so there has to be some compensation for "joints". In my experience it's seems to be best to work with something that can resemble what the skeleton does for structure. I once tried a plastic Halloween skeleton for a doll and that turned into a big waste of money. The plastic is cheap and they just can't hold up to continually moving the doll around. I ended up having "bones* breaking and compromised the functionality of the doll body. The only part that really held up was the ribcage. I salvaged that part when the doll was eventually taken apart and used it in another doll.

What I do now is make a heavy duty cardboard template of the body and have the joints cut apart and trimmed back so the they can move freely. I strengthen the limbs with 1" pvc tubing, running the length of each body part (arms and legs) and secured to the cardboard with duct tape. I completely wrap the cardboard body template with duct tape for added strength. Once the cardboard template is all taped together and can flex at the joints, I can pull the spandex bodysuit over the cardboard template. At that point I'm ready to start filling with polyfil. I can put polyfil on both sides of the cardboard template as I'm filling the spandex bodysuit. It's amazing how quickly the shape of the body "pops" because the cardboard template provides a foundation for the polyfil to fit against. I found that without that added process, the bodysuit just becomes one squishy plush doll and lacks detail that I'm after. I also found to use the SMALL bodysuit because it limits how much it will stretch. I've come to realize that when you get a good foundation to a homemade doll, the wrapping (in this case the cross dresser skin) will just be eye candy. That's what I'm after - that the end result LOOKS like a real woman.

My career was in graphic arts. I'm retired now, but I still have professional design software to work with. IF I was still in the business, I would have access to a large format printer. I can only work with the desktop printer now. So I have to "stitch" things together, when I'm working on things that are in a large format environment. So to get the body template of the silicone doll on cardboard and LIFE SIZE, I had to scale a mock up of the body for a 5'4" doll body in my design program. Then I output panels to the printer, then assemble the panels. I then use spray adhesive to mount the paper template onto heavy duty cardboard (which I had on hand) and cut the cardboard template with an snap blade stainless steel knife.

I've included a screenshot of the design program's "ready to print" function that shows the panels for the full size doll body.

Erica's "head" was delivered yesterday. Today I worked on her makeup. I'll be attaching some picture of her later.

[55mrradiohead]

Out of body experience. Don't get all wigged out!

Yesterday I received the doll head and the spandex bodysuit. Today I started the process of *makeup* on Erica's head. I need to take some alcohol and cotton swabs and clean up the edges of the permanent marker color in a few spots. The shipper tracking for the silicone bodysuit is saying the delivery will be in about 10 days, so I have plenty of time to prep other steps. The cardboard template is prepped and ready to be cut out.

Jim

[sillyconnie]

I've included a screenshot of the design program's "ready to print" function that shows the panels for the full size doll body.

Could you please print the pages to a pdf or save each images and share it somewhere ? Because I own the same exact suit and would like to try your cardboard thing

[55mrradiohead]

I've included a screenshot of the design program's "ready to print" function that shows the panels for the full size doll body.

Could you please print the pages to a pdf or save each images and share it somewhere ? Because I own the same exact suit and would like to try your cardboard thing

Attached is a PDF printable file in full scale. You will need a PDF viewer that has multiple page printing capability. I use Foxit for PDF viewing. I see that it can print this document, just like my design software. You will need to piece the pages together after they have all printed with cellophane tape or a glue stick. Stay away from Elmers or similar, it just slows the process and can ruin the pages because it gets the paper too wet. Then you can get a can of spray adhesive for mounting to the cardboard (i.e. walmart, lowes, home depot, hobby lobby, michaels, etc). Make sure you work in an area that's okay for getting any accidental over spray from the adhesive. It's not easy to clean up. Once you have the cardboard template cut out, you will need to determine if you want the body to have bends at the shoulders, elbows, knees, hips, and waist (in the area of the navel). Those areas need to be cut apart but tape them back together with duct tape so that they can bend inside the bodysuit. If you want the arms and legs to be stronger, I suggest PVC tubing (1") to work like a skeleton's bones. Cut two pieces to length for each arm and also two pierces to length for each leg. Remember the elbows bend and the knees bend, So the PVC tubing needs to be separated at those joints. You can use duct tape to tape the PVC tubing pieces to the cardboard, running down the center of the arms and the legs.

[MarcusMM]

Idk, but the pic of 'Sex Toy 1' might be against the forum rules.

Otherwise interesting project, especially the desired weight. However I don't get how the chest is build, is it a single cardboard and then all stuffed, no pipes for stabilization?

[55mrradiohead]

Idk, but the pic of 'Sex Toy 1' might be against the forum rules.

Otherwise interesting project, especially the desired weight. However I don't get how the chest is build, is it a single cardboard and then all stuffed, no pipes for stabilization?

They watch the posts very closely. IF they didn't like the picture or the phrasing, they would have temporarily removed the post and sent me a message, asking me to modify what wasn't acceptable and then repost, with moderator approval. The moderators can still remove that photo if they don't approve.

YES - the upper body needs a piece of PVC tubing place on the backside of the heavy duty cardboard, in the same place the spine would be. An additional comment regarding the flexibility of the abdomen. The heavy duty cardboard for the abdomen needs to be in two pieces - the upper represents the ribcage, the lower represents the pelvic area. There needs to be some type of void in the middle (navel area) so that the doll can twist at the waist. IF the doll builder wants to keep the two pieces *attached* you can take some 1" or 2"cushion foam (seat foam) and cover the void area on the front and back. You would use the spray adhesive and spray directly onto the cardboard template where the foam needs to attach. At least 3 or 4" of the template (waist area) needs to be removed so that there is enough area that the foam can act as a pivot point for twisting. My suggestion is to study your own body when the waist twists so that you remove cardboard from the template in the correct location.

One point I didn't emphasize about the cardboard template in my notes in my previous post. The card board needs to be HEAVY DUTY. Not just one or two layers. You want the cardboard to be strong, so two layers minimum, three is better. The alternative choice is a plastic corrugated material, in the graphic arts industry its called coroplast. It comes in 4x8 sheets. Lowes and HD sell 18x24 yard signs of the material, if you don't think you've ever seen it. It's durable, but it also needs two layers to be strong. I've used it before. The layers need the flutes of the corrugation to run opposite of each other to prevent the material from bending somewhere in the middle of the material. Coroplast cuts just like cardboard sheeting. Cardboard is just cheaper. IF a person doesn't know where to find cardboard that's in good shape, the home improvement stores sell flat boxes in the moving/shipping department. The final step in wrapping it with duct tape strengthens the cardboard. And duct tape is cheap.

[55mrradiohead]

And Erica says, "I don't like my head just lying around. Can't you do something about giving me a view for a few minutes?"

I have a suntan silicone doll named Jazlyn. So I removed Jazlyn's head and she's taking a nap. Then I took Erica's head, removed the wig head plastic mount base and pulled out the styro-foam in the neck. Now Erica and can look around and I can study Erica's head in relationship to being on a body. So far so good.

And Erica says, "That's better. At least now I can see that I'm sitting in a walk in closet."

I checked DHL tracking and the silicone bodysuit is already in the US. Projected delivery for next week.

IF anyone wants inspiration of building a doll with a full body silicone bodysuit, Pornhub has multiple videos posted by crossdressers Miss Eva Mae and Sativa Fire. IF you want to see how one of the silicone bodysuits *move* around on a real body, just do a search for those posters.

Jim

[55mrradiohead]

Erica was excited to try out her core body this afternoon, as she continues to wait for her skin to arrive via DHL, which will be tomorrow.

In the pics, the silicone hands are just on temporarily so I can see how to mount them permanently and if I need to make any adjustments to the heavy duty cardboard skeleton. The core body (spandex bodysuit) already has about 6 lbs (2.7 kg) of poly-fil cotton filler and still needs a little more. I will need to go pick up another 5 lb box (2.3 kg). I won't even use a third of the box. I still need to order the silicone feet and the TPE vagina. I will fit the TPE vagina on the inside of the silicone bodysuit, because I already know that the factory entry is too small for use. I've done this in the past on a couple other doll builds, so I'm already familiar with how that process goes.

I've also got a package of pre-painted fingernails on hand. Those will be super glued on with the finishing touchs. In the pictures, the head is just mounted temporary, on a piece of pvc tubing that slides in and out of the head's foam core. The pvc tubing is mounted with duct tape to the neck area, where it extends about 5.25" (14 cm) to mount the head. Once the silicone bodysuit has been put on the core body and I've checked everything to make sure that I don't want to add anymore cotton filler, I'll use a little permanent glue to secure the neck opening to the doll head. Before I do that, I will remove the temporary pvc head post so that the neck can be flexible.

Jim