Let me preface this with the repair is a lady parts tear (not traffic; just mishandled), where the removable insert goes in, and that the issue is inside the cavity and not outside.
I've been working to rebuild Callista from a major injury for months (around August of last year) and one of the largest hurdles has been the chemical smell from attempting to rebuild parts of her with paste made using Primer 94 and TPE. The problems with that are many fold, but this issue I need most help with is the lingering smell. I haven't used primer paste for more than three months and the smell from her is as strong as ever. I had used a syringe over the course of one month to rebuild her and it never took: the tpe cured with a yellow tinge, a plush spongy texture, and that strong smell.
I've since switched to 'TPE glue' (solvent) for this from The Doll House with much better results, but the smell from the primer remains.
Things I've tried:
Heat from soldering iron
Heat from heat station
Heat from wood burning tool (highly risky; not advised, more on this below)
Heat from a blow dryer
cool air from blow dryer
Basic airing out over time
Time (more than three months now)
Activated charcoal packs (made with cheesecloth)
Cleaning with soap and water
Oiling as normal (considering a much heavier application in the problem areas)
Things I've considered trying:
More oil
Running a pump to cycle water through her cavity
Melt with heat and rebuild again (drastic measure!)
Oxy (removes stains... maybe primer smell as well?)
Asking the community (which is this post)
The best results were to burn it out with the wood burning tool. I never had to touch the TPE directly (it was too hot!!!) but just maneuvering it within proximity of the TPE was enough not only to melt the spongy parts out but also to eliminate the smell from the outer areas of the wound. So I know I can burn it out, but this would result in an even more massive injury than before and the rebuild has been going better now that I've moved away from heat and primer.
So, for those of you that have experience: how the blueberry fudgemuffins do I get that blasted primer smell out of her? I've considered everything I can think of and it's been long enough that I know I need some out side help here.
Primer 94 Smell Removal?
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homersexual
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Wheezer
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Re: Primer 94 Smell Removal?
Sorry to hear that 
I have never had extreme smell lingering in all my good tests of 3M 94 and all the many uses on my dolls. The material evaporates off quickly and no smell lingers. Thick or deep paste MAY take a while, but not months on end. Really thick/deep paste applications have been seen to partially off gas into the base mass of TPE and can be helped along with airflow from a small aquarium air pump. The stuff will evaporate and result in no smell.
One concern is if you got LEGITIMATE 3M 94 primer ?? I have seen mystery solution sold as 3M 94 on various sites. The content is unknown but defiantly not the same as what comes from 3M. Results with that stuff were odd and unpredictable.
The only real lingering smell situation I have encountered was a mix of 3M 94 paste made with some odd/bad TPE. Paste made from that bad/odd TPE never really set (spongy as you noted). It also had a pungent almost vinegar smell that would never go away. The only cure was to remove the bad paste and smelly source TPE and bin them. The TPE looked a bit off before I started and I wanted to see if I could use it and how it would react. My test item and nose both learned a lot !
At this point you have tried stuff that goes WELL BEYOND what you need to do. Sorry to say that removing and restarting looks like the only true solution.
If you go down that path, make sure your source TPE is good stuff (no smell or degradation seen) and your 3M 94 primer is from a trusted source.
Validate your 3M 94 and your paste source TPE by making a small batch of paste and then trying that on a small item that has good air exposure.
The result after curing should be a good bond/part and no residual smell.
Also the target area may remain contaminated even once you remove the bad paste.
A good precaution is to cauterize (heat fuse, melt) the surface of the target area before attempting a repair with known good paste.
Note that if the source TPE looks odd (crumbly, showing odd breaks or cracks, etc.) then it is not a good candidate for chemically making paste, the TPE is breaking down. Some older WM dolls (especially tan variants) would eventually get a "crumbling disease" and the TPE from that did not make good paste. You COULD melt and try to use it for molding, but that is iffy. I've melted bad TPE and the initial mold looks good, but then some would start to go bad. Thus the reheating did not cure the underlying TPE issue.
This all applies to the ORIGINAL formula stuff, not the new and improved version.
Good luck, I hope it helps.
... W ...
I have never had extreme smell lingering in all my good tests of 3M 94 and all the many uses on my dolls. The material evaporates off quickly and no smell lingers. Thick or deep paste MAY take a while, but not months on end. Really thick/deep paste applications have been seen to partially off gas into the base mass of TPE and can be helped along with airflow from a small aquarium air pump. The stuff will evaporate and result in no smell.
One concern is if you got LEGITIMATE 3M 94 primer ?? I have seen mystery solution sold as 3M 94 on various sites. The content is unknown but defiantly not the same as what comes from 3M. Results with that stuff were odd and unpredictable.
The only real lingering smell situation I have encountered was a mix of 3M 94 paste made with some odd/bad TPE. Paste made from that bad/odd TPE never really set (spongy as you noted). It also had a pungent almost vinegar smell that would never go away. The only cure was to remove the bad paste and smelly source TPE and bin them.
The TPE looked a bit off before I started and I wanted to see if I could use it and how it would react. My test item and nose both learned a lot !At this point you have tried stuff that goes WELL BEYOND what you need to do. Sorry to say that removing and restarting looks like the only true solution.
If you go down that path, make sure your source TPE is good stuff (no smell or degradation seen) and your 3M 94 primer is from a trusted source.
Validate your 3M 94 and your paste source TPE by making a small batch of paste and then trying that on a small item that has good air exposure.
The result after curing should be a good bond/part and no residual smell.
Also the target area may remain contaminated even once you remove the bad paste.
A good precaution is to cauterize (heat fuse, melt) the surface of the target area before attempting a repair with known good paste.
Note that if the source TPE looks odd (crumbly, showing odd breaks or cracks, etc.) then it is not a good candidate for chemically making paste, the TPE is breaking down. Some older WM dolls (especially tan variants) would eventually get a "crumbling disease" and the TPE from that did not make good paste. You COULD melt and try to use it for molding, but that is iffy. I've melted bad TPE and the initial mold looks good, but then some would start to go bad. Thus the reheating did not cure the underlying TPE issue.
This all applies to the ORIGINAL formula stuff, not the new and improved version.
Good luck, I hope it helps.
... W ...
Any comments, ideas or suggestions are given FREELY for your use and information. Before using, first check to ensure they are compatible with your doll or specific situation. If any tool, chemical or technique is mentioned, make sure to follow all directions and safety instructions of the product. Some tools or items can be dangerous, so be careful. Use all appropriate safety gear, don’t run with scissors and don’t eat the yellow snow. Always keep your mind open.
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homersexual
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Re: Primer 94 Smell Removal?
Hi Wheezer.
Your guides have been really informative, but my experience with Callista haven't been very successful. I suspected that I was well beyond off gassing months ago, your confirmation essentially confirms my worst suspicions. The curious part about this is that it's an internal issue, probably some bit of leftover TPE paste. Before using the wood burning tool she was well sealed as my priority was wound closure, and I figured the rest was just opening her up and rebuilding parts. I bought molding material for this purpose, and have been using the ample TPE from the insert she came with as spare TPE for all of this (with plenty left).
The paste appeared okay, but as I said, it cured yellow and spongy:
That's an older repair image, things have come a good way since but the smell issue is a substantial challenge. The yellow was removed with the wood burning tool, but there may still be bits lingering inside the actual cavity.
Here is the paste I'd made, which I thought looked fine:
I think if there is a way to get the smell out without butchering her I'll take it, but you're well above my experience level so I'm willing to defer to you on this. However, I'm also open to other suggestions before taking such drastic steps.
She is a newer WM and, from what I'm reading, probably one of the most short lived dolls ever if I have to throw in the towel with her. Very sad because this is my first full size doll and I really tried to take good care of her.
For anyone wondering the damage was tension related. I maneuvered her into and out of storage and hooked an arm between her legs, resulting in a deep tear that I've been rebuilding since.
Your guides have been really informative, but my experience with Callista haven't been very successful. I suspected that I was well beyond off gassing months ago, your confirmation essentially confirms my worst suspicions. The curious part about this is that it's an internal issue, probably some bit of leftover TPE paste. Before using the wood burning tool she was well sealed as my priority was wound closure, and I figured the rest was just opening her up and rebuilding parts. I bought molding material for this purpose, and have been using the ample TPE from the insert she came with as spare TPE for all of this (with plenty left).
The paste appeared okay, but as I said, it cured yellow and spongy:
- 11.2022.jpg (53 KiB) Viewed 704 times
Here is the paste I'd made, which I thought looked fine:
- 09.2022.jpg (84.61 KiB) Viewed 704 times
She is a newer WM and, from what I'm reading, probably one of the most short lived dolls ever if I have to throw in the towel with her. Very sad because this is my first full size doll and I really tried to take good care of her.
For anyone wondering the damage was tension related. I maneuvered her into and out of storage and hooked an arm between her legs, resulting in a deep tear that I've been rebuilding since.
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Wheezer
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Re: Primer 94 Smell Removal?
Sad to hear the tale, but you have the right attitude so there is hope. You have moved beyond paste, it looks like melted sliver time. This may be a bit tough, so hang on. For this you NEED a temperature controlled soldering iron and will be melting TPE. You will be doing a variant of what I described HERE (viewtopic.php?p=2274994#p2274994). Start by looking at that. Note the comments by RevJack that when he made paste from TPE and TPR he got a weird mixture that also never worked out.
Next is to get out the TPE gangrene. You could either go in from the existing hole, or make an incision in her belly/pubic area and go in from there. Front entry might seem gruesome, but there will be MORE TPE for final sealing and smoothing/blending is easier than in the confined curves of the pubic area. Get out the bad stuff and cauterize those areas with the soldering iron. Since the vag area will need the bad stuff out, your best bet here might be to go in from there. Whatever you do get the bad out and cauterize. When done then wait a while, do a sniff test and repeat if needed until you have all the smell gone.
At this point you probably will have a ragged vag hole, but solid TPE. Start reconstruction from there. Open her half way, add a sliver of TPE that fits and melt CAREFULLY to the base TPE. A wee bit of 94 can help hold the temporary in place prior to melting. Let cool and then build up another layer. You can either melt only the outer edges (and get tree like layers), or carefully melt the entire sliver to bond completely to the one below. This is the strongest bond but the most tricky to not "over melt".
Since you probably have a blank opening under the hole, start with a bit bigger chunk for the initial base part. Melt carefully at the edges to bond. After that use thinner bits fully melted in. A bigger initial base chunk minimized the risk of melt through. With a small tool, the right temperature and some practice you can melt a local pool of TPE without damaging other areas. Once you get to the top then leave a slight mound to aid in smoothing.
Read the post about Complete Vaginal Reconstruction(viewtopic.php?p=2274994#p2274994) to get an idea of the tools and techniques.
If comfortable with all that then do a practice run. Cut a 'V" chunk out the insert, then backfill the hole with the sliver and melt steps. When that works well, then move on to the doll.
The dark secret to repairs is that it is never as easy as the post sounds. In reality there are usually several ones that don't work out. Those are called "practice" or "learning curves".
Your best blend or repair might be on a test part, and when you get to the doll repair it may not be prefect, but dang good. A lot better than the initial damage.
As for the initial damage, well shit happens to all of us.
Plus there is no telling if it was a TPE related issue. From what I have seen, NO doll is ever supplied with a full spec sheet of their components (e.g. xx% this type TPE, xx% softening oil of type ABC, xx% coloring agent composed of XYZ). And even dolls from the same manufacturer in the "same" color will be slightly different in each lot.
Hope it helps.
Cheers!
... W ...
This may be a bit tough, so hang on. For this you NEED a temperature controlled soldering iron and will be melting TPE. You will be doing a variant of what I described HERE (viewtopic.php?p=2274994#p2274994). Start by looking at that. Note the comments by RevJack that when he made paste from TPE and TPR he got a weird mixture that also never worked out.Next is to get out the TPE gangrene. You could either go in from the existing hole, or make an incision in her belly/pubic area and go in from there. Front entry might seem gruesome, but there will be MORE TPE for final sealing and smoothing/blending is easier than in the confined curves of the pubic area. Get out the bad stuff and cauterize those areas with the soldering iron. Since the vag area will need the bad stuff out, your best bet here might be to go in from there. Whatever you do get the bad out and cauterize. When done then wait a while, do a sniff test and repeat if needed until you have all the smell gone.
At this point you probably will have a ragged vag hole, but solid TPE. Start reconstruction from there. Open her half way, add a sliver of TPE that fits and melt CAREFULLY to the base TPE. A wee bit of 94 can help hold the temporary in place prior to melting. Let cool and then build up another layer. You can either melt only the outer edges (and get tree like layers), or carefully melt the entire sliver to bond completely to the one below. This is the strongest bond but the most tricky to not "over melt".
Since you probably have a blank opening under the hole, start with a bit bigger chunk for the initial base part. Melt carefully at the edges to bond. After that use thinner bits fully melted in. A bigger initial base chunk minimized the risk of melt through. With a small tool, the right temperature and some practice you can melt a local pool of TPE without damaging other areas. Once you get to the top then leave a slight mound to aid in smoothing.
Read the post about Complete Vaginal Reconstruction(viewtopic.php?p=2274994#p2274994) to get an idea of the tools and techniques.
If comfortable with all that then do a practice run. Cut a 'V" chunk out the insert, then backfill the hole with the sliver and melt steps. When that works well, then move on to the doll.
The dark secret to repairs is that it is never as easy as the post sounds. In reality there are usually several ones that don't work out. Those are called "practice" or "learning curves".
Your best blend or repair might be on a test part, and when you get to the doll repair it may not be prefect, but dang good. A lot better than the initial damage.
As for the initial damage, well shit happens to all of us.
Plus there is no telling if it was a TPE related issue. From what I have seen, NO doll is ever supplied with a full spec sheet of their components (e.g. xx% this type TPE, xx% softening oil of type ABC, xx% coloring agent composed of XYZ). And even dolls from the same manufacturer in the "same" color will be slightly different in each lot.
Hope it helps.
Cheers!
... W ...
Any comments, ideas or suggestions are given FREELY for your use and information. Before using, first check to ensure they are compatible with your doll or specific situation. If any tool, chemical or technique is mentioned, make sure to follow all directions and safety instructions of the product. Some tools or items can be dangerous, so be careful. Use all appropriate safety gear, don’t run with scissors and don’t eat the yellow snow. Always keep your mind open.
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homersexual
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Re: Primer 94 Smell Removal?
Yeah, I used to think the uniqueness of each doll's makeup was a nice touch, but it's just as much a liability. All part of the adventure!As for the initial damage, well shit happens to all of us.
Plus there is no telling if it was a TPE related issue. From what I have seen, NO doll is ever supplied with a full spec sheet of their components (e.g. xx% this type TPE, xx% softening oil of type ABC, xx% coloring agent composed of XYZ). And even dolls from the same manufacturer in the "same" color will be slightly different in each lot
So, news:
You guys ever experience one of those situations where you try everything you can think of, and then ask for help, only to then have something suddenly work? That happens to me a lot, and it happened with this issue last night. I won't bother recapping, but I will say that I am still ready to follow Wheezer's recommendations (thanks again for the feedback).
Purely as an act of "I don't know what else to try" I set Callista up for the night as usual since the primer smell problem started; standing on her feet in another room. Normally her legs are closed to keep the smell at bay and there is no insert in her. Last night I set her up with her legs slightly parted to allow airflow into her cavity with her leggings down to her thighs. I then set up my dehumidifier a few feet away with the air circulating toward her ladyparts. This thing is powerful enough to give me cottonmouth when I run it all night from the next room, so I know she was getting the brunt of the warm dry air.
Today I can say that the smell is significantly reduced, if I could put a percentage to it I'd say it's about 70-80% gone!
I honestly don't know what to make of this. I've been at this since about September, so I'm totally at a loss. I'm prepared to remove TPE as necessary, but the problem areas are inside, and as Wheezer pointed out would need to be removed and rebuilt but that may not need be as extensive as first thought.
My earlier ideas were to saturate the TPE, flush out the excess, or leech whatever was causing the smell out of the TPE. I'm going to try it again tonight and see how it goes.
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Wheezer
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Re: Primer 94 Smell Removal?
Great news with Callista, very encouraging !
She would not be the first girl I have known that stood up, aired out the cooch, then was ready to go again.
With that positive direction, please put all heat and surgery on hold for a bit. Others items might be able to solve it.
One is an air flush other is an alcohol soak and air flush.
For the air only fix first find a short tube or such to dilate her vag opening. Looking at the image above she seems quite closed. You want her open a bit so the air can get out. Insert an air tube from an aquarium pump deep inside and and then air her out. The wider tube helps in air exchange by letting the air out.
If you have the parts and desire, you can also help it a long with an exhaust fan. In that case get a longer tube that will open her up. Cut a slice in it, run the air line through the slice and seal it a bit with tape. On the other end of the tube rig up a small exhaust fan to help get the air out. In one case I used a cheap plastic funnel and 12 volt computer case fan. With a soldering iron I poked four holes in the funnel lips and attached the fan with zip ties, making sure it was positioned to exhaust. Then attach and seal the funnel to the tube with some tape. A 12 volt computer case fan will spin from 5V to 12volts, so you can power it from a many sources. A wall wart (power supply brick) from an old USB item (5Vv DC), a modified USB cable from a USB source, a 9V DC or whatever. It's not hard it you have the parts and inclination. But if that's not your thing, then maybe skip it.
An air input and exhaust fan rig comes in handy when you are doing deep vagina repairs, such as TPE ball sealing. RevJack and others might find one useful. The final result does not have to look elegant, only that it works.
Another thing that can help is an internal vagina soak with isopropyl alcohol. Something is evaporating to create the stink, so why not try to extract it into solution and save your nose?
Place Callista on on a flat surface and bend her so her vag is as much up as you can. Support her by bending her knees, pillows or whatever. You just want her vag up as much as possible. Place a towel under her butt in case you spill in the next step. Use a syringe or baster to fill her up with iso propyl alcohol. Fill her up and let her soak. After a bit remove it with the baster or syringe. A small tube on the syringe can let you get DEEP to remove the final liquid. Repeat this a few times. When done go to the step above about air drying with an aquarium pump.
It's always amazing to me that sometimes, just when you are at your wits end on a repair, a curveball comes in and alters your plans.
In this case, in a good way.
Cheers!
... W ...
She would not be the first girl I have known that stood up, aired out the cooch, then was ready to go again.
With that positive direction, please put all heat and surgery on hold for a bit. Others items might be able to solve it.
One is an air flush other is an alcohol soak and air flush.
For the air only fix first find a short tube or such to dilate her vag opening. Looking at the image above she seems quite closed. You want her open a bit so the air can get out. Insert an air tube from an aquarium pump deep inside and and then air her out. The wider tube helps in air exchange by letting the air out.
If you have the parts and desire, you can also help it a long with an exhaust fan. In that case get a longer tube that will open her up. Cut a slice in it, run the air line through the slice and seal it a bit with tape. On the other end of the tube rig up a small exhaust fan to help get the air out. In one case I used a cheap plastic funnel and 12 volt computer case fan. With a soldering iron I poked four holes in the funnel lips and attached the fan with zip ties, making sure it was positioned to exhaust. Then attach and seal the funnel to the tube with some tape. A 12 volt computer case fan will spin from 5V to 12volts, so you can power it from a many sources. A wall wart (power supply brick) from an old USB item (5Vv DC), a modified USB cable from a USB source, a 9V DC or whatever. It's not hard it you have the parts and inclination. But if that's not your thing, then maybe skip it.
An air input and exhaust fan rig comes in handy when you are doing deep vagina repairs, such as TPE ball sealing. RevJack and others might find one useful. The final result does not have to look elegant, only that it works.
Another thing that can help is an internal vagina soak with isopropyl alcohol. Something is evaporating to create the stink, so why not try to extract it into solution and save your nose?
Place Callista on on a flat surface and bend her so her vag is as much up as you can. Support her by bending her knees, pillows or whatever. You just want her vag up as much as possible. Place a towel under her butt in case you spill in the next step. Use a syringe or baster to fill her up with iso propyl alcohol. Fill her up and let her soak. After a bit remove it with the baster or syringe. A small tube on the syringe can let you get DEEP to remove the final liquid. Repeat this a few times. When done go to the step above about air drying with an aquarium pump.
It's always amazing to me that sometimes, just when you are at your wits end on a repair, a curveball comes in and alters your plans.
In this case, in a good way.
Cheers!
... W ...
Any comments, ideas or suggestions are given FREELY for your use and information. Before using, first check to ensure they are compatible with your doll or specific situation. If any tool, chemical or technique is mentioned, make sure to follow all directions and safety instructions of the product. Some tools or items can be dangerous, so be careful. Use all appropriate safety gear, don’t run with scissors and don’t eat the yellow snow. Always keep your mind open.
-
homersexual
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Re: Primer 94 Smell Removal?
I'm very grateful for your feedback, Wheezer. 
I was wondering about an alcohol soak and evaporation, but was concerned about any long term weakening of the TPE or interference with further repairs. I know that with melting and whatnot it's pretty much still TPE, but chemicals, as I've experienced with Callista's repairs, can have mixed consequences. I've used it in the past with no serious issues, but usually only for minor cleaning.
I was thinking about rigging an exhaust hose to a smaller tube and running that into her opening. She is more open than in that other image. I used a wood burning tool (which is extremely hot and not recommended for TPE repairs!) to essentially burn out most of the spongy problem TPE and clear out the chemical smell on the outside: it was a risk that paid off, even though the smell was an issue on the inside of her.
Your rig is an interesting idea, and I think I have the parts around my home to put most of that together and power it via USB port. This gets me wondering if some positive pressure was a good thing. Maybe something gentler moving the air out so that the air has precious extra time to work around inside her.
I'm also still planning on building a better outer labia. Was going to follow examples I've seen here on vagina and nipple builds to mold and attach. Physically, she's closer to ready than not, but still in need or some rebuilding. The smell issue is the obvious priority for now.
For anyone wondering, a second round of airing out didn't have as dramatic an effect as the first time, but it is still an improvement. unlike previous attempts to air her out the dehumidifier seemed to make the difference (or this has been one heck of a coincidence).
I'll experiment with alcohol next week. I'll stick with 70% in this case just to prevent any serious drying out.
100% agree!With that positive direction, please put all heat and surgery on hold for a bit.
I was wondering about an alcohol soak and evaporation, but was concerned about any long term weakening of the TPE or interference with further repairs. I know that with melting and whatnot it's pretty much still TPE, but chemicals, as I've experienced with Callista's repairs, can have mixed consequences. I've used it in the past with no serious issues, but usually only for minor cleaning.
I was thinking about rigging an exhaust hose to a smaller tube and running that into her opening. She is more open than in that other image. I used a wood burning tool (which is extremely hot and not recommended for TPE repairs!) to essentially burn out most of the spongy problem TPE and clear out the chemical smell on the outside: it was a risk that paid off, even though the smell was an issue on the inside of her.
Your rig is an interesting idea, and I think I have the parts around my home to put most of that together and power it via USB port. This gets me wondering if some positive pressure was a good thing. Maybe something gentler moving the air out so that the air has precious extra time to work around inside her.
I'm also still planning on building a better outer labia. Was going to follow examples I've seen here on vagina and nipple builds to mold and attach. Physically, she's closer to ready than not, but still in need or some rebuilding. The smell issue is the obvious priority for now.
For anyone wondering, a second round of airing out didn't have as dramatic an effect as the first time, but it is still an improvement. unlike previous attempts to air her out the dehumidifier seemed to make the difference (or this has been one heck of a coincidence).
I'll experiment with alcohol next week. I'll stick with 70% in this case just to prevent any serious drying out.
-
Wheezer
- Doll Elder
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- Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2018 1:49 am
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Re: Primer 94 Smell Removal?
For the fan item a computer case fan is NOT a turbine. Plus if you are running it a 5volts you should get a low steady exhaust. The goal is to get the air in and then out, classic air exchange. Not really dwell time. Then add the fact that an aquarium air pump is a simple low power air pump, not a lot of flow or pressure there. Whatever you decide as long as air goes in and there is something helping it get out you will be good.
At this point with Callista you need to consider the cure versus the medicine. Something is still in there that is evaporating and causing the stink. Air is good but you want to draw out the chemical causing it. Thus the alcohol soak. 3M lists iso alcohol as its clean up solvent for uncured 3M 94 primer. Cured primer ignores it. Similar chemicals of a odiferous variety will also dissolve in iso alcohol, to various extents. So getting that mystery stuff in solution and out of the doll is more important than theoretical TPE drying. From what I have done an alcohol soak (using either 70% or 90% iso) did not cause internal damage when observed with an endoscope. But it is your doll and proceed as you see fit. If you are concerned then an internal wipe down with baby oil and mineral oil afterwards could be done. Now its sort like deciding how to deal with a water spill on the floor. Wipe it up to remove the excess (e.g. alcohol soak) then run a fan on the remaining, or just use a fan only and depend on evaporation.
Labia creation and molding is fun and oddly relaxing. Molding off a pre-made silicone master is easiest, assuming you can find one that is the correct size, shape and look for your doll. Sculpting your own of of clay then molding TPE can result in parts that fit perfectly on your doll and have the look you really want. But getting the right shape, size and texture can be a long and challenging endeavor. It kind of gets down to the time and effort you want to put into doing it. But that's another item entirely.
However you are spot on about the smell first. Build a solid foundation, then a solid house (or in this case, a pretty pussy).
Cheers and good luck - the progress sounds good.
... W ...
Plus if you are running it a 5volts you should get a low steady exhaust. The goal is to get the air in and then out, classic air exchange. Not really dwell time. Then add the fact that an aquarium air pump is a simple low power air pump, not a lot of flow or pressure there. Whatever you decide as long as air goes in and there is something helping it get out you will be good.At this point with Callista you need to consider the cure versus the medicine. Something is still in there that is evaporating and causing the stink. Air is good but you want to draw out the chemical causing it. Thus the alcohol soak. 3M lists iso alcohol as its clean up solvent for uncured 3M 94 primer. Cured primer ignores it. Similar chemicals of a odiferous variety will also dissolve in iso alcohol, to various extents. So getting that mystery stuff in solution and out of the doll is more important than theoretical TPE drying. From what I have done an alcohol soak (using either 70% or 90% iso) did not cause internal damage when observed with an endoscope. But it is your doll and proceed as you see fit. If you are concerned then an internal wipe down with baby oil and mineral oil afterwards could be done. Now its sort like deciding how to deal with a water spill on the floor. Wipe it up to remove the excess (e.g. alcohol soak) then run a fan on the remaining, or just use a fan only and depend on evaporation.
Labia creation and molding is fun and oddly relaxing. Molding off a pre-made silicone master is easiest, assuming you can find one that is the correct size, shape and look for your doll. Sculpting your own of of clay then molding TPE can result in parts that fit perfectly on your doll and have the look you really want. But getting the right shape, size and texture can be a long and challenging endeavor. It kind of gets down to the time and effort you want to put into doing it. But that's another item entirely.
However you are spot on about the smell first. Build a solid foundation, then a solid house (or in this case, a pretty pussy).
Cheers and good luck - the progress sounds good.
... W ...
Any comments, ideas or suggestions are given FREELY for your use and information. Before using, first check to ensure they are compatible with your doll or specific situation. If any tool, chemical or technique is mentioned, make sure to follow all directions and safety instructions of the product. Some tools or items can be dangerous, so be careful. Use all appropriate safety gear, don’t run with scissors and don’t eat the yellow snow. Always keep your mind open.
Re: Primer 94 Smell Removal?
Did you ever get rid of the smell? Also, was it bad tpe that caused the paste to go yellow and spongy?
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homersexual
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Re: Primer 94 Smell Removal?
Mostly got rid of it. It's extremely faint. I am not sure why, but aiming a dehumidifier at her while keeping her spread using two clamps really impacted the odor. I'd say (unscientifically) that on a scale of 0-100 (100 being unbearable) it went from 100, where the smell near her entrance made my sinuses sting and eyes water instantly, to about 4, where I get traces if I try really hard to smell it, but nothing that bothers me at all.
I will still apply Wheezer's advice on alcohol as a finishing touch, and will again when I begin the next step in her restoration, but the dehumidifier just blowing at her made a significant and rather sudden impact.It cleared up most of it overnight, the lingering odor took another week on and off. I did clean and oil her insides afterward, as part of her normal care routine.
As for the TPE, I think WM sold me an inferior doll, likely made with scrap TPE, but I can't say if the spongy effect was because of this.
I was planning a post about this to help others that think they have mold, as it turns out from my experience it's very likely not mold, but debris trapped inside the doll from scrap TPE pieces. I will attach pictures of what I found inside Callista's insert (which has been my scrap TPE source for repairs). The debris was about 1/2 inch inside solid TPE that showed no surface defects or issues. The debris was solid, when I tapped it with tweezers it made a sharp clicking sound. The debris in that TPE was cut and placed in bleach, which has had no impact on it at all over a period of months, though the TPE has started to break down.
I will still apply Wheezer's advice on alcohol as a finishing touch, and will again when I begin the next step in her restoration, but the dehumidifier just blowing at her made a significant and rather sudden impact.It cleared up most of it overnight, the lingering odor took another week on and off. I did clean and oil her insides afterward, as part of her normal care routine.
- Dehumid_20230317.JPG (365.86 KiB) Viewed 513 times
I was planning a post about this to help others that think they have mold, as it turns out from my experience it's very likely not mold, but debris trapped inside the doll from scrap TPE pieces. I will attach pictures of what I found inside Callista's insert (which has been my scrap TPE source for repairs). The debris was about 1/2 inch inside solid TPE that showed no surface defects or issues. The debris was solid, when I tapped it with tweezers it made a sharp clicking sound. The debris in that TPE was cut and placed in bleach, which has had no impact on it at all over a period of months, though the TPE has started to break down.
- February 9th
- 20230209.jpg (213.91 KiB) Viewed 513 times
- April 18th
- 20230418.jpg (169.18 KiB) Viewed 510 times
Re: Primer 94 Smell Removal?
Glad to hear you've almost entirely got rid of the smell. That's messed up about the TPE tho, I hope noone else finds something like that in one of there dolls/inserts.
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homersexual
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Re: Primer 94 Smell Removal?
Minor update:
The repairs have taken a turn for the better, and I may have some positive news of how it's going in another thread. The Primer smell never went away, and I cannot say what I did wrong, or if maybe Callista's blend just wasn't compatible. The last bit I removed very recently still reeked of Primer more than 6 months after it had been used. I had to cut it away and begin rebuilding from scratch. A funny thing I did discover was that pure mineral oil can neutralize some of the smell in some cases, but only on the surface once it has set. If you make a paste and are finding the odors overpowering and difficult to get out, it may never go away and could require surgical intervention.
Wheezer was totally correct, cutting it out was the only solution. I've taken a lot of drastic steps, but I the Primer 94 smell is completely gone. My very big thanks and much respect to all of you for your advice throughout the forums, and to Wheezer for being so practical, insightful, and encouraging.
I make no promises, but I hope soon to have good news about the repairs, some pics, and some of my own tips for the adventurous or desperate.
The repairs have taken a turn for the better, and I may have some positive news of how it's going in another thread. The Primer smell never went away, and I cannot say what I did wrong, or if maybe Callista's blend just wasn't compatible. The last bit I removed very recently still reeked of Primer more than 6 months after it had been used. I had to cut it away and begin rebuilding from scratch. A funny thing I did discover was that pure mineral oil can neutralize some of the smell in some cases, but only on the surface once it has set. If you make a paste and are finding the odors overpowering and difficult to get out, it may never go away and could require surgical intervention.
Wheezer was totally correct, cutting it out was the only solution. I've taken a lot of drastic steps, but I the Primer 94 smell is completely gone. My very big thanks and much respect to all of you for your advice throughout the forums, and to Wheezer for being so practical, insightful, and encouraging.
I make no promises, but I hope soon to have good news about the repairs, some pics, and some of my own tips for the adventurous or desperate.
Re: Primer 94 Smell Removal?
I think that the problem is similar when using Xylene only for creating TPE paste. I did some testing with that and noticed also the smell. The smell last until all the solvent (Xylene) has evaporated. It takes days at least in open area but inside the doll.. maybe weeks.
The repair point is unfinished as long as you can detect a smell. When it is done, repair is good looking and quite a strong bonding.
The repair point is unfinished as long as you can detect a smell. When it is done, repair is good looking and quite a strong bonding.
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homersexual
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Re: Primer 94 Smell Removal?
Agreed. As long as any smell remains it's unfinished. Using "TPE Glue" (solvent) has worked better for me, and is generally totally odorless after a few days at most when creating and using pastes in really hard to reach areas. On the surface it's faster. Another consideration is the TPE consistency after whatever a person uses has evaporated. Maybe it's a quality issue but my doll's TPE has had less than favorable reactions to most of what I've done. TPE Glue has had the best results for me, but even then there's some fiddling with mixtures so that it doesn't feel so much like rubber when it sets.
Patience is very important whatever route a person chooses. Whatever the solvent it must remain undisturbed for as long as possible for it to truly work, set, and evaporate.
Patience is very important whatever route a person chooses. Whatever the solvent it must remain undisturbed for as long as possible for it to truly work, set, and evaporate.
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Re: Primer 94 Smell Removal?
Hey anyone ever use this? I welded (chemically welded) 2 small pieces of TPE together with this it took awhile to evaporate but the tpe was one when it was done and didn’t smell or discolor. It probably needs the deep dive research, but I think it’s what’s in the 94 primer idk 
. Pease give your 2¢ on this.
. Pease give your 2¢ on this.- Attachments
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- IMG_2312.jpeg (1.45 MiB) Viewed 234 times
She’s such a doll 
My November Girl……… Stay Hard and Drive Hard Brothers! - - Thanks for your excellent advice!
My November Girl……… Stay Hard and Drive Hard Brothers! - - Thanks for your excellent advice!
