Primer 94 Smell Removal?

[Hot doll reviews]

Or a hot weld just enough to make tpe sticky and stick to itself or another piece of tpe hot to hot and let cool and be one. Idk just ideas to put out there probably already thunked of maybe .

[Hot doll reviews]

Feet don’t get ripped up idea fyi

[seagull]

Good idea, although not for someone with with a foot fetish

[Wheezer]

Minor update:

The repairs have taken a turn for the better, and I may have some positive news of how it's going in another thread. The Primer smell never went away, and I cannot say what I did wrong, or if maybe Callista's blend just wasn't compatible. The last bit I removed very recently still reeked of Primer more than 6 months after it had been used. I had to cut it away and begin rebuilding from scratch. A funny thing I did discover was that pure mineral oil can neutralize some of the smell in some cases, but only on the surface once it has set. If you make a paste and are finding the odors overpowering and difficult to get out, it may never go away and could require surgical intervention.

Wheezer was totally correct, cutting it out was the only solution. I've taken a lot of drastic steps, but I the Primer 94 smell is completely gone. My very big thanks and much respect to all of you for your advice throughout the forums, and to Wheezer for being so practical, insightful, and encouraging.

I make no promises, but I hope soon to have good news about the repairs, some pics, and some of my own tips for the adventurous or desperate.

Glad the advice worked and you were able to stabilize you doll.

The most important parts was that you heard and actually listened to the advice, then saw what worked on your doll and acted accordingly.
What works on one doll may (or may not) work on yours, so you have to look, observe and think a bit. Well done on that.

Anyone here who says that have the ONE TRUE ANSWER and nothing else works ... well ... hmmm.
It might be the answer, or then they might just be shooting powder puffs out of their bunghole.

It's just good to see you made some positive progress.

Well done.
Cheers!
... W ...

[Wheezer]

Good idea, although not for someone with with a foot fetish

Well, unless they have an albino foot fetish ....

... W ...

[Wheezer]

Hey anyone ever use this? I welded (chemically welded) 2 small pieces of TPE together with this it took awhile to evaporate but the tpe was one when it was done and didn’t smell or discolor. It probably needs the deep dive research, but I think it’s what’s in the 94 primer idk . Pease give your 2¢ on this.

No, not really.
The 3M 94 primer has multiple components, not just Xylene.

Pure Xylene can be a bit problematic with TPE. For some blends it works well, while for others it is destructive. I use it for certain specific repairs and TPE painting, and RevJack uses it in some variations of TPE paste depending on the situation. But in all cases caution is recommended, since it can go sideways quickly with TPE. It looks like in your case you were lucky.

There is a LONG thread HERE (viewtopic.php?t=131728) that was started back in 2020 that is still going on.
Many folks have contributed lots of info on 3M 94 Primer.
It's good starting point regarding its components and applications.

Hope it helps.
Cheers!
... W ...

[Hot doll reviews]

Thanks for the info on that would you say the hot weld process is better less chems I assume?

[Wheezer]

They both have their applications ... one is not better. Sometimes one method is easier to use for a repair than the other.

Heat is going back to how the doll was made. You can do many things, but also goof up quickly and badly. You need the correct tools, practice and a steady hand to get good results. There are some items that really seem to work well with heat, such as area smoothing/texturing and sculpting.

Chemicals let a user do specific repairs beyond the scope of heat. As long as you use the correct chemicals, they tend to be more forgiving and easier for repairs by all levels of users. No special tools are required and reasonable goofs can be fixed to prevent significant damage. Chemicals are great for small surface cuts and nicks, deep repairs when you can't add heat (deep vagina repair), detail areas that might be damaged by heat, and high stress area repair (using TPE paste).

With care and practice you could probably use one method for everything.
It's just seems easier and safer switching methods to meet the specific task.

Hope it helps.
Cheers!
... W ...

[seagull]

Arthur1960 is regarded as someone with extensive experience with heat repairs but uses the 3M product for very thin parts, fingers, etc.

[homersexual]

They both have their applications ... one is not better. Sometimes one method is easier to use for a repair than the other.

Heat is going back to how the doll was made. You can do many things, but also goof up quickly and badly. You need the correct tools, practice and a steady hand to get good results. There are some items that really seem to work well with heat, such as area smoothing/texturing and sculpting.

Chemicals let a user do specific repairs beyond the scope of heat. As long as you use the correct chemicals, they tend to be more forgiving and easier for repairs by all levels of users. No special tools are required and reasonable goofs can be fixed to prevent significant damage. Chemicals are great for small surface cuts and nicks, deep repairs when you can't add heat (deep vagina repair), detail areas that might be damaged by heat, and high stress area repair (using TPE paste).

With care and practice you could probably use one method for everything.
It's just seems easier and safer switching methods to meet the specific task.

Hope it helps.
Cheers!
... W ...

Exactly! I saw some of the handiwork of a lot of others here, and some of them make it look easy, but with dolls there are so many variables that heat, glue, whatever may not be as workable. I've applied so much of what I learned, only to learn that there is no one simple fix with Callista. You can believe I threw everything I could at this. I even figured out how to get bubbles out of TPE paste when stirred, but it took a LOT of patience and considerable trial and error.

Practice and patience are absolutely necessary, whatever methods a person tries.

Feet don’t get ripped up idea fyi

I like that Idea, but I am sticking to soft insoles and ankle socks for now. MrFranz had a good one with (iirc) linoleum strips. I'd really love to see some kind of flat caps for button heads, but haven't had much luck there, and foot damage was a problem straight from delivery (broken toes and bolts extruding through the shoes). I really DO like the newer standing feet I've been seeing on dolls like Zelex and others; even with the seams they're a lot less jarring than silver or white bolts.

[Hot doll reviews]

They both have their applications ... one is not better. Sometimes one method is easier to use for a repair than the other.

Heat is going back to how the doll was made. You can do many things, but also goof up quickly and badly. You need the correct tools, practice and a steady hand to get good results. There are some items that really seem to work well with heat, such as area smoothing/texturing and sculpting.

Chemicals let a user do specific repairs beyond the scope of heat. As long as you use the correct chemicals, they tend to be more forgiving and easier for repairs by all levels of users. No special tools are required and reasonable goofs can be fixed to prevent significant damage. Chemicals are great for small surface cuts and nicks, deep repairs when you can't add heat (deep vagina repair), detail areas that might be damaged by heat, and high stress area repair (using TPE paste).

With care and practice you could probably use one method for everything.
It's just seems easier and safer switching methods to meet the specific task.

Hope it helps.
Cheers!
... W ...

Exactly! I saw some of the handiwork of a lot of others here, and some of them make it look easy, but with dolls there are so many variables that heat, glue, whatever may not be as workable. I've applied so much of what I learned, only to learn that there is no one simple fix with Callista. You can believe I threw everything I could at this. I even figured out how to get bubbles out of TPE paste when stirred, but it took a LOT of patience and considerable trial and error.

Practice and patience are absolutely necessary, whatever methods a person tries.

Feet don’t get ripped up idea fyi

I like that Idea, but I am sticking to soft insoles and ankle socks for now. MrFranz had a good one with (iirc) linoleum strips. I'd really love to see some kind of flat caps for button heads, but haven't had much luck there, and foot damage was a problem straight from delivery (broken toes and bolts extruding through the shoes). I really DO like the newer standing feet I've been seeing on dolls like Zelex and others; even with the seams they're a lot less jarring than silver or white bolts.

Yeah I stand my girls in a Harem room so I can enjoy them out of the bed as much as I can love hugging and grabbing a feel. Those bolts are metric replacements for the factory bolts, had to custom cut them to just the right size with spacer’s so its skeleton direct to those custom soles ie: ( plastic cutting board from the dollar store) “dollar” store get it. This leaves the tpe feet completely protected from any stresses, its floor to skeleton only tpe is unaffected. Makes it real easy for getting her out of bed I slide her a little gently off the edge of the bed tilt her towards the floor then those soles hit the carpet and I stand her right up on them done I also have a wheeled crane for moving her back and forth to the shower, the harem, the bed etc.