Another free doll !
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Another free doll !
I said I wouldn't do this again but this one seems not that bad as the melting doll I picked up some months back.
This doll was left in a storage center.
( I have a 18cu ft dump bed truck I rent to them for haul off)
And I often pick through the units they are going to clean out incase there's any goodies( usually not )
But in this case there was a very familiar looking box with Chinese writing on it that looked like it had been knocked over and kicked around .
Without opening I tossed it in the cab .
Had the weight and the internal jiggle of what I was sure was in it ,but was much smaller than I've encountered.
Well once I get it home sure enough ,Doll!!
Ohhhh bit she must have been in that unit a while ,bent up .
Because she has these micro cracks in just about every stress point on a doll, Her boobs were so bad they had ripped open and the gel insides had just about leaked all out.
I've already cut them off.
Completely un salvageable.
One elbow is split open to the joint but I can hot knife that closed easy enough.
My challenge will be all these tiny cracks. Because they are so many in a dense cluster I'm hoping to get some insight from someone who may have tackled these before.
I've given her a deep scrubbing already and a very generous oiling ,letting the oil soak into her completely.
In sure that's how this happened ,she was bent into awkward shape and as the heat from storage caused the oil to evaporate out ,then the cracks began forming.
So of the doll repair gurus have a method to attack this ,I'm here to learn.
( looking at you Wheezer and Revjack)
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Re: Another free doll !
Nothing better than a new project.
Opening a new box with a used doll can either be a window into an owners unfulfilled dreams and desires, or the stunning results of abject abandonment.
I think you have the abandonment situation here.
You did the right thing applying oil and letting soak in. Probably do it again.
Cracks like that usually result from the oil leeching from the base TPE to such an extent that the surface layer has no excess oil and it cracks.
So another round of oil to allow it to go deep would be a good thing to do.
The cure to the cracks it to well ... close them up.
You can use either heat (soldering iron), chemicals (3m 94 Primer) or a combination of both.
In this case a combination method would be the best way to go.
Tooling needs include a fine bladed soldering iron such as HERE (viewtopic.php?p=2331620#p2331620) or HERE (viewtopic.php?p=2275376#p2275376), some real 39 94 primer as noted HERE (viewtopic.php?p=2341893#p2341893) and a what I consider a "TPE Smoothing Wand". This is actually a wide temperature controlled leather or shoe tool as mentioned HERE (viewtopic.php?p=2447051#p2447051). As a note you CAN find the leather tools for about 1/2 the Amazon price if you root around AliExpress. Also some baby oil, iso propyl alcohol, a small glass bowl, small brush and your favorite smoothing and retexture stuff.
Your goal is to get the lower levels of the crack to bond together with chemicals, then fuse and smooth the upper parts with heat.
First mist the target areas with iso alcohol to remove a bit of the oil on the crack surfaces that will be bonded by the 3M 94. Let that dry.
Then decant the 3M 94 Primer into the bowl and use the brush to apply to some to each crack. Jab the brush deep into the crack getting to the bottom. Be liberal but don't just slater it on and watch for drips. You will be moving quickly and using more than just a drop, so it is easy to get 3M 94 on unwanted places. If that happens then mist or pour some iso alcohol immediacy on the excess to dilute the 3M 94 and reduce the chance of surface damage.
When done position the doll in a neutral pose which will force the cracks together as much as they will close. Don't apply pressure to force the cracks closed. Leave alone for 12-24 ours to form a good bond.
While the 3M 94 is curing, take your TPE smoothing wand to a test area of the doll and find the right smoothing temperature setting for your blend of TPE. The target temperature should be relatively high and one that melts about 1mm to 2mm of the TPE surface. This works since TPE does not diffuse heat rapidly and thus you can get localized hot spots for melting without wider deformation for the doll. If your determined temperature causes the TPE to smoke or liquefy and run when applied, then back it down. That is too hot.
Once the 3M 94 has cured, preheat your smoothing wand to the determined temperature. While it is preheating, mist or brush on some baby oil or mineral oil to the target crack area. Take the heated smoothing wand and GENTLY GLIDE it over the areas. Do not just jab it or force it into the TPE, that will create divots. Use several passes to let the heat build up and melting and flowing work. At the higher heat setting you want to move slowly but continuously. Practice it first. Using one arm to support your smoothing hand can make it easier to get an even and consistent pass of the tool.
When complete your cracks should bonded from the bottom up and melt fused from the skin down to about 1mm to 2mm. Enough for reasonable antics if the doll is kept oiled and treated well.
The butt areas, being smooth and large, should not be too difficult. Use care where the butt meets the thigh.
Watch the edge of the smoothing tool to make sure it does not dig in. Transition areas such as that can bite you if you are not careful.
Cracks in detail areas such the anus and vagina can be done in a similar way. Use 3M 94 for the depth and heat for the surface. Detail areas will need a smaller tool for surface work, such as the edge of a soldering iron. Smaller cracks with are almost closed (like some of the anus and vag cracks in the last image) might only need a small amount of 3M 94 to seal up.
Practice and have fun knowing that you can't make her worse !
Cheers!
... W ...
Re: Another free doll !
I've read I should NEVER use baby oil on a silicone doll, so what CAN I use ?
I think I read that baby oil AND Vaseline can be used on my TPE doll.
I have 3 silicone, and one TPE. I understood a long time ago, baby oil was fine, but now it's not ?!
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Re: Another free doll !
Baby oil is mineral oil with a fragrance added.Satisdix wrote: ↑Sun Nov 26, 2023 8:22 pm My silicone doll is starting to show those tears in her knees and fingers that got mangled.
I've read I should NEVER use baby oil on a silicone doll, so what CAN I use ?
I think I read that baby oil AND Vaseline can be used on my TPE doll.
I have 3 silicone, and one TPE. I understood a long time ago, baby oil was fine, but now it's not ?!
Read the ingredients, you want the one with the least amount of " not mineral oil " additives.
Mineral oil is a key component in the chemical make up of TPE. Unfortunately it will evaporate out or be wicked out but any clothes you may put on her .
To prevent cracks,you have to replenish the lost oil. Just like your own body in a dry climate.
Applying lotion can keep you from dry skin.
And yes this is for TPE .
I'm sorry I can't help you with silicone ,I've never had one of those dolls ( yet) and haven't done any research into how to care for them .
I can tell you that TPE , does NOT like silicone touching it for extended periods .
It will damage the TPE .
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Re: Another free doll !
Salvage TPE material for future projects.
Cheers!
Sili
Re: Another free doll !
Re: Another free doll !
Looks like she's just been hitting the gym really hard and she got a few stretch marks
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Re: Another free doll !
Adding TPE, either by paste or melting, helps reduce the stress on the crack in the future. It takes longer to add material, but if the crack is wide and hard to close it may be your best option.
Reverend Jack
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Re: Another free doll !
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