Need help with complicated vagina repair/recore operation

[RevJack]

it was not clear from the photos whether it is silicone or TPE

Yeah, it really is quite clear.
Sorry.

[Leviathan777]

so if it's silicone, then I don't know. the only thing I know is that there are adhesives for silicone, but I'd like to see a photo of how it was damaged before your repair? can I ask a man?

[RevJack]

Silicone is hyper sensitive to contaminates. Any hint of sulpher (mold, mildue) will inhibit the curing process. So will water, most soaps, oils, tpe, the list is endless. Since your sample cured outside the body, and it cured inside the body where it wasn't touching the body, some contaminates are inhibiting the curing.
I would scrub that cunnie with alcohol and steel wool, all the way to the back before I tried again.
If it were me, I would coat the inside of her cunnie with Smooth-on Psycho-paint, let it set up, then fill with my silicone and core.
Psycho-paint is a silicone specially designed to adhere to old, cured silicone. Nothing else has the same adhesive qualities while remaining flexible.

That is the best I got.

Reverend Jack

[RevJack]

so if it's silicone, then I don't know. the only thing I know is that there are adhesives for silicone, but I'd like to see a photo of how it was damaged before your repair? can I ask a man?

If you don't know anything about silicones, then why are you giving advice?
It's going to be bad advice if you don't know the subject.

[Thelord001]

it was not clear from the photos whether it is silicone or TPE

It is a Sinodoll, so it is silicone.

[Thelord001]

Silicone is hyper sensitive to contaminates. Any hint of sulpher (mold, mildue) will inhibit the curing process. So will water, most soaps, oils, tpe, the list is endless. Since your sample cured outside the body, and it cured inside the body where it wasn't touching the body, some contaminates are inhibiting the curing.
I would scrub that cunnie with alcohol and steel wool, all the way to the back before I tried again.
If it were me, I would coat the inside of her cunnie with Smooth-on Psycho-paint, let it set up, then fill with my silicone and core.
Psycho-paint is a silicone specially designed to adhere to old, cured silicone. Nothing else has the same adhesive qualities while remaining flexible.

That is the best I got.

Reverend Jack

Thanks for the advice. I will take that into consideration. Yeah, there is chance its still contaminated somehow.. Its hard to clean her up all the way in AND get her dry after... there is a possibility there was still some tiny drops of water or alcohol left there. However the damage is only from the opening and about 4 cm in so thats where the silicone was poured.. Any drops of water further inside should not affect the curing?
Where can i get this Psycho-paint?

[RevJack]

Re "Any drops of water further inside should not affect the curing?"
Unfortunately, any contact at any point with a contaminate could wreck the cure.

Smooth-on.com is where you get psycho-paint and Silpoxy. But Silpoxy cures hard, don't forget.
This is also your best supplier for the highest grade commercial silicone products.

[Thelord001]

Re "Any drops of water further inside should not affect the curing?"
Unfortunately, any contact at any point with a contaminate could wreck the cure.

Smooth-on.com is where you get psycho-paint and Silpoxy. But Silpoxy cures hard, don't forget.
This is also your best supplier for the highest grade commercial silicone products.

Thanks, i'll order some psycho paint. But, do you really think i should use steel wool for cleaning? its very soft material and it will most likely rip it apart even worse. There is only a thin silicone layer left now of the wall separating the vagina from the anus and im afraid that will collapse.
Also, do you have any tips about how to clean the vagina all the way in and get her dry after?
I have to say its a shame i havent got any help from the manufacturer here. The doll is only a few months old and i think it would be appropiate to offer some assistance in such a case.

Here is a picture of another doll, same model with the same design. With an entry hole thats only 7mm wide, it will inevitably tear. The question is not if, but when. An average erected penis is about 40-50 mm wide, so an entry hole of only 7mm will tear. Inevitably. Silicone just isnt as elastic as TPE so the vaginal opening cannot be designed this way. It looks better with a small opening, but for functionality the manufacturers must stop designing dolls this way.

Dont get me wrong though, i absolutely love this doll and everything else about it. The softness is absolutely amazing, its the best i have ever felt. Thats why i really want to fix this damage, its a shame for such a nice doll, really.

[RevJack]

Steel wool actually remarkably smooth, but I get your point. You want to make sure that if there is any dried lube or flecks of mold, a tiny shred of latex from a condom, or whatever is causing your problem, you want to make sure it is gone. Hell, mixing it with dirty popsicle stick can fail a cure. A dish sponge maybe to gently scrub the insides, I'm stretching here because I don't know the nature of the contaminate. I re-cored a SanHui without the drama you are facing, so I'm really shooting in the dark here. I wish I knew more and could be more helpful.

[Dees luver]

Rev is right but gosh don’t ever put steel wool inside your doll!

If it’s sticking elsewhere then the problem must be contamination inside still
If the mix is old/expired, it may still dry fine in your test but not inside the vagina because there is no direct exposure to air, I’ve tried to use an old mix on a split in the past and the pour itself cured but didn’t adhere to the doll, this is because the hardener is bad and will weep to the outside of the pour making it not stick to the doll
If you say the mix is good then the only problem can be contamination, all I can tell you is try again to to clean the hole, no you do not want to use steel wool you never get the bits of steel left out of her!
Try a bottle brush, doushe her with acetone and then rinse again with alcohol after, any acetone left will ruin the cure but alcohol should not, alcohol dries quickly so that should be your last rinse
After your done rinsing spread her legs standing so her hole is open, and if you can put an air fan under her point it at her goods a leave to dry overnight, then before you pour make sure that it doesn’t feel oily inside, soft silicone weeps oil and that will spoil your repair alone, you may have to repeat the cleaning process until she does not feel oily inside.
Again if I were you I find a suitable insert and glue it in with regular flowable silicone
But you can try the bottle brush to get her cleaner

IMG_5350.jpeg (104.24 KiB) Viewed 156 times

[Wheezer]

Don't get upset with RevJack ... sometimes after a bit of good adult beverage we all get a bit cranky.

Perhaps no need to scrub with steel wool, but you got to get that damn hole CLEAN and DRY before you do the silicone repair.
I mean totally from top to bottom.

What I usually do for something like this is to remove the head, arch the back, adjust the legs and get the doll so the vagina cavity it UP, like cup or a bowl. This will hold liquids in.
Then I take a syringe with an attached tube to clean her out. Inject fluid with the syringe, then extract it. Repeat several times with different fluids.
Making sure the cavity is up insures that all cleaning liquids get as deep as possible into the doll.
Below are some of the syringe and tube combinations I use. You should be able to make something similar from locally available components.

For your silicone cleaning I would start with a water based degreaser, Purple Power or something similar.
Fill part way, agitate by pulling the syringe handle in and out, then fill to the top. Let it sit and soak for a few minutes.
Then insert the tube to the bottom of the vagina and extract fluids. Do that several times to get it all out.

After that, repeat the entire process using Isopropyl alcohol. Fill, agitate, soak and remove. This will remove any residual cleaner or water.
Finally, do the same process with Acetone. Be careful since acetone may degrade the syringe.
A bit of air should evaporate any remaining acetone. You can use air from a aquarium pump if desired.
Once complete, your doll cavity should be clean and dry.

Again, for your silicone to silicone bond to work, both mating surface must be completely clean and dry.
Almost clean won't cut it.

Hope it helps.
Cheers!
...W...

Cleaning_Syringes(crop)(2048).jpg (1007.42 KiB) Viewed 155 times

[Dees luver]

Don't get upset with RevJack ... sometimes after a bit of good adult beverage we all get a bit cranky.

Perhaps no need to scrub with steel wool, but you got to get that damn hole CLEAN and DRY before you do the silicone repair.
I mean totally from top to bottom.

What I usually do for something like this is to remove the head, arch the back, adjust the legs and get the doll so the vagina cavity it UP, like cup or a bowl. This will hold liquids in.
Then I take a syringe with an attached tube to clean her out. Inject fluid with the syringe, then extract it. Repeat several times with different fluids.
Making sure the cavity is up insures that all cleaning liquids get as deep as possible into the doll.
Below are some of the syringe and tube combinations I use. You should be able to make something similar from locally available components.

For your silicone cleaning I would start with a water based degreaser, Purple Power or something similar.
Fill part way, agitate by pulling the syringe handle in and out, then fill to the top. Let it sit and soak for a few minutes.
Then insert the tube to the bottom of the vagina and extract fluids. Do that several times to get it all out.

After that, repeat the entire process using Isopropyl alcohol. Fill, agitate, soak and remove. This will remove any residual cleaner or water.
Finally, do the same process with Acetone. Be careful since acetone may degrade the syringe.
A bit of air should evaporate any remaining acetone. You can use air from a aquarium pump if desired.
Once complete, your doll cavity should be clean and dry.

Again, for your silicone to silicone bond to work, both mating surface must be completely clean and dry.
Almost clean won't cut it.

Hope it helps.
Cheers!
...W...
Cleaning_Syringes(crop)(2048).jpg

Nobody is getting upset with the Rev, I agree with him on all counts, I have to think he was emphasizing how well the doll needs to be cleaned, common sense should tell you you don’t want steel wool in your dolls pussy, one strand of steel wool could easily get lodged into the silicone and you really don’t want your little friend running into that!

Your idea sounds good but I would still use the bottle brush in addition to helped loosen contamination stuck to the inner wall



And if someone is cranky because they drank perhaps they should not be posting on forums until they are sober?

[Wheezer]

Nobody is getting upset with the Rev, I agree with him on all counts, I have to think he was emphasizing how well the doll needs to be cleaned, common sense should tell you you don’t want steel wool in your dolls pussy, one strand of steel wool could easily get lodged into the silicone and you really don’t want your little friend running into that!

Your idea sounds good but I would still use the bottle brush in addition to helped loosen contamination stuck to the inner wall

In this case bottle brush MIGHT be needed, since you don't know what goop is inside.
Usually with removing human fluids, it is not needed.

Just make sure there is no residual liquids left when done.
To be totally safe, you might want to stand her up when done and let her cooch drip dry.
If after standing a while you feel or see ANY moisture, then repeat the acetone rinse and dry again.

Cheers!
...W...

[seagull]

Always thought adult beverages were owner mandatory for the first doll

[Thelord001]

Nobody is getting upset with the Rev, I agree with him on all counts, I have to think he was emphasizing how well the doll needs to be cleaned, common sense should tell you you don’t want steel wool in your dolls pussy, one strand of steel wool could easily get lodged into the silicone and you really don’t want your little friend running into that!

Your idea sounds good but I would still use the bottle brush in addition to helped loosen contamination stuck to the inner wall

In this case bottle brush MIGHT be needed, since you don't know what goop is inside.
Usually with removing human fluids, it is not needed.

Just make sure there is no residual liquids left when done.
To be totally safe, you might want to stand her up when done and let her cooch drip dry.
If after standing a while you feel or see ANY moisture, then repeat the acetone rinse and dry again.

Cheers!
...W...

It is hard to get rid of the uncured silicone inside, its a greasy mess. Just washing your hands after is a mess, nothing seems to remove it, acetone, alcohol, bensin, nothing.. Using a bottle brush seems like a good idea, i'll see if i can find some of those.